Tag - Landscaping Companies Springfield MO

Irrigation and Drainage Services - Lawn Irrigation Springfield MO
05 Mar

Troubleshooting for Irrigation

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Troubleshooting for Irrigation

The best way to troubleshoot electrical system problems within an irrigation system is with a step-by-step approach. The method detailed below isolates and checks each of the irrigation components: the controller, zone control valves and the wiring that connects it all together.

Step 1: Check the Obvious

Before launching a thorough system diagnosis, don’t forget to check the obvious. Is the system water supply on? Are there isolation valves at the backflow preventer, pump station or in the mainline that are preventing water from flowing? Has the flow control on the valve been turned all of the way off? Reviewing these factors up front can save time and effort.

Step 2: Make Sure You Don’t Have a Programming Error

If the zone operates fine manually using the controller’s manual mode, but does not operate automatically, this usually indicates a programming error rather than an electrical problem. Review the controller’s programming guide and look for data entry mistakes.

Step 3: Know How to Use a Volt ohm Meter

An inexpensive volt ohm meter will be your most valuable tool and a required component for successful electrical trouble shooting. Volt ohm meters can be purchased in the electrical supplies section of a local hardware store, electronics shop (like Radio Shack) or your local irrigation equipment supplier. Modern digital meters are more reliable and provide an easy to read display that can give precise quantitative feedback of the system symptoms.

Step 4: Is the Controller Operational?

After these preliminary steps, you’re now ready to check the controller itself. A blank LCD display, or failure to respond to keyboard entries, could indicate a lack of power to the unit or other damage. Begin by using your volt ohm meter to take a voltage reading of the primary incoming power, to the controller. It should read somewhere between 110 to 125 volts. If it doesn’t, you’ve found your problem. But, it’s seldom that easy. In some cases, you’ll notice that the display of the controller is scrambled, missing LED segments or the entire unit is “frozen” preventing buttons or dials from entering data. This is a symptom of “micro processor lock up,” where the primary brain of the controller has become confused with bad data from electrical surges or other causes. This can often be cleared by re setting the device. Reset the controller by either disconnecting all electrical and battery power from the unit for several minutes, or by pressing a “reset” button which clears the memory of the processor and reboots the system.

Step 5: Check for a Tripped Breaker or Blown Fuse

If the controller passes these tests, next check the station output of the controller to the valves that control the area that is not being irrigated. Again using the volt ohm meter, you can check to see if the output terminals indicate the 24 volts needed to open a standard solenoid. If you do not get a reading here, you should check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker within the controller. Also check the output of the transformer in the controller to make sure that it is outputting correct voltage. A blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker in most controllers indicates an overload condition in the field not a problem with the controller. If one of these conditions is present, you can certainly replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker, however this will not solve the root cause of the problem with either the field wiring or valve solenoid.

If you are fortunate to have a top of the line controller, you may have the benefit of a more modern feature called “automatic short circuit detection” which is a specialized self diagnostic system within the controller itself. This handy feature allows the controller to identify a zone that has a fault in the field wire or valve and skip over the affected zone, eliminating a blown fuse. The best part of this feature is that the controller will digitally display a message that says: “Station 3 Error” to assist with locating the valve or field wire problem.

Step 6: Check Field Wiring

If the controller, transformer and station outputs all work properly, the next place to check is the field wiring. And this happens to be the most common place where unforeseen problems can occur.

Use the volt ohm meter and perform an “ohm test” on a specific zone circuit (common wire plus station wire), with the controller power turned off. At this point, you will want to be certain the volt ohm meter is set to the correct resistance setting so that the unit provides accurate and measurable feedback. Make sure to disconnect the wires you are testing from the controller terminal block so that your reading is specific to the wires in the field, and not mixed up with feedback through the circuits of the controller. The “ohm test” will send a pulse of current from the battery in the volt meter through the circuit. A normal reading is 20 to 60 ohms.

If the circuit has a “short,” meaning the current is taking a shortcut back to the controller, the reading may be as low as 1 to 10 ohms. If the circuit is completely broken, you will get an infinity reading, meaning there is no clear path for the electricity to flow back through the circuit and to the volt ohm meter.

A reading of a high number, but not infinity, would indicate that there is still an intact circuit, but there is a high amount of resistance in the circuit that is keeping current from flowing efficiently enough to activate a solenoid valve. This is a common symptom of a bad electrical connection, usually an underground splice that was not properly waterproofed.

Test each circuit from the controller and you will notice a pattern. The good circuits will have similar readings and the bad circuit will stand out from the others. This gives you confidence in the process and helps you work specifically to the final step of checking the valve solenoid.

Step 7: Check the Valve Solenoid

The final step in a systematic approach is to decide whether diagnosed problems in the field wiring are related to the wiring and splices, or to the specific solenoid on the valve. At this point, you will move to the actual location of the valve in the field and cut into the wires leading into the solenoid to take an ohm reading of the solenoid’s resistance. Typically, if the solenoid is bad, you will get a reading for a “short” or 1 to 10 ohms. (There is no need to test voltage at the valve since you have already “ohm tested” each circuit at the controller so you know which zones have problems.)

How To Sharpen Your Trouble Shooting Skills

Electrical trouble shooting an irrigation control system using this step by process takes time to learn, and requires a willingness to try multiple approaches before finding the solution to your problem. Many irrigation manufacturers and distributors offer training classes on electrical trouble shooting that will give you an opportunity to get hands on experience with this process.

A few hours in an irrigation trouble shooting course can provide valuable training for that hot summer day when you face stressed turf – and a system that will not operate!

 

 

 

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Proper Techniques for Lawn Irrigation - Springfield MO
05 Mar

How to set an Irrigation Controller

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How to set an Irrigation Controller

    1. Date & Time – set up the date and time to match the current date and time
    2. Set Seasonal Adjustment to 100% – Turn your dial to Seasonal Adjust and press the up or down arrows as necessary
    3. Program (A, B, or C)
      1. Pick one program and clear out the rest if anything is set in them
      2. Only set up multiple if you have special circumstances and don’t want to have to re-set original program “start-times” and “run-times”
    4. Set start times for each program
        1. Each program runs all zones for their “run time”

      i. 1 zone may run for 7 minutes
      ii. A program with 10 zones running for 7 minutes will run for 70 minutes total
      1.Therefore, start times must be at least 70 minutes apart or system will malfunction and show some kind of error on the screen
      2.We should never need more than 1 start time on a normal yard
      i.BUT, on new plantings, (bed or bushes) we DO use 2-3 start times so we can water 2-3 times in one day
      ii. Spring and Fall typically need 2 waterings a day and Summer can sometimes require 3 waterings to keep new plants or grass healthy
      iii. Often when we set more than one start time, we would save those settings as a second program (program B)
      1.This allows us to leave the original program exactly as it was so it can be returned to after the establishment period of any new plants

    5. Set run times for each zone

1.At 3x per week:
i.18 minutes on rotor zones & mp-rotator zones
ii.7 minutes on spray zones
iii.25-50 minutes on drip zones
iv. Specific adjustments should be made based on plant type, wind flow, and sun/shade of the area each zone waters

  1. Set days to water1.M WF or Tu Th S for a 3-day a week schedule
    1. M W F or Tu Th S for a 3-day a week schedule
  2. Set seasonal % adjustment for the season
    1. Summer: 100%-120%
    2. Spring/Fall: 40%-80%
By Irrigation, Irrigation System Backflow Testing Springfield MO, Landscaper Springfield MO, News, Water Features Springfield MO , , , , , 0 Comments
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Spring Landscape Checklist - Landscaping Services Springfield MO
05 Mar

Jumping Oak Gall

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Jumping Oak Gall

Tree species affected: White oak (Quercus alba) primarily, and some other white oak group species.Concerns:Leaves on entire crowns of white oak trees turning brown in late spring. In some areas, whole hillsides appear brown

Concerns: Leaves on entire crowns of white oak trees turning brown in late spring. In some areas, whole hillsides appear brown.

Description: High populations of a very tiny, native, stingless wasp (Neuroterussp.) cause pinhead-size galls (abnormal plant growths) to form on the undersides of leaves. Each round, button-like gall contains one wasp larva. Starting at the margins, brown, scorch-like areas appear on leaves where many galls are present. In more severe cases, leaves curl up, turn black, and drop early from trees. Effects of the damage become noticeable in late spring or early summer and remain visible until fall.

Most galls drop from leaves in early summer. Brown pockmarks remain where galls had been attached. Fallen galls are sometimes observed to “jump” due to vigorous movements of larvae within, much like moth larvae of “Mexican jumping beans.” This behavior allows galls to fall deeper into grass and leaf litter where they are sheltered throughout the coming winter.

Many species of gall wasps have two generations per year. It is assumed that the jumping oak gall wasp in Missouri has a similar life history with one generation lasting only a few weeks in early spring and rarely being noticed. The second generation extends from spring through the following winter and causes most of the leaf damage. Outbreaks typically last for one or two years and then fade away as natural controls reduce gall wasp numbers again.

Similar Leaf Issues:  In years with cool wet springs, fungal diseases can be abundant on trees and may also cause leaf browning. Anthracnoseis common on white oak foliage in those conditions. Botryosphaeria twig cankercauses leaves on infected small branches to wilt and turn brown, which results in “flagging” in the canopy during the summer. Typically, twig bark shrivels and turns brown where the canker occurs, near the junction with healthy tissue.

Recommendations: Galls and fungi that affect oak leaves rarely have a significant impact on tree health. Nearly all trees will recover, even if all leaves are brown. Controls are not warranted. By the time the damage is observed, any opportunity to treat has already passed for that year, and populations are likely to decline naturally. However, severe leaf damage stresses trees, particularly if most leaves on a tree are killed which results in a second flush of leaves emerging in summer. The best tactic is using good tree care practices that reduce stress (mulching, watering during drought, avoiding wounds due to lawnmowers and trimmers).

 

 

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Benefits of Landscape Mulch Installation Springfield MO
05 Mar

Juniper Tip Blight

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Juniper Tip Blight

Introduction  

Juniper tip blight, a progressive dying back of twigs and branches, can be caused by one of three fungi, Phomopsis juniperovora, Kabatina juniperi, or Sclerophoma pythiophila. These diseases are devastating to young plants while plants more than five years old are less seriously damaged. In addition to many species of juniper, arborvitae, white cedar, cypress and false-cypress are also susceptible to P. juniperovora. Kabatina juniperi infects juniper species primarily, but S. pythiophila may also infect pines, Douglas-fir, and Eastern

juniperovora and/or K. juniperi infections are involved. Sclerophoma pythiophila usually doesn’t kill whole plants. Drought, freezing, dog urine, and transplant shock can cause similar dieback symptoms. However, if fungi are the cause, they will produce small gray to black fruiting bodies (up to 0.5 mm in diameter) on recently killed leaves and stems and thus aid in diagnosis of juniper tip blights.

Symptoms and Signs

Juniper Tip Blights: Phomopsis juniperovora, Kabatina juniperi, or Sclerophoma pythiophilaJuniper tip blight, a progressive dying back of twigs and branches, can be caused by one of three fungi, Phomopsis juniperovora, Kabatina juniperi, or Sclerophoma pythiophila. These diseases are devastating to young plants while plants more than five years old are less seriously damaged. In addition to many species of juniper, arborvitae, white cedar, cypress and false-cypress are also susceptible to P. juniperovora. Kabatina juniperi infects juniper species primarily, but S. pythiophila may also infect pines, Douglas-fir, and Eastern. Blight symptoms first show up on recent growth of the lower branches. Dieback begins with shoot tips, and progresses back toward the main stem . Death of the entire plant may result where P.

Disease Cycle

All three of these fungi overwinter in killed twigs and bark on the shrub or on the ground. Fruiting bodies of the fungi develop in the spring and, during wet weather, release many spores capable of causing new infections. Phomopsis juniperovora attacks young succulent shoot tips and may also enter the plant through wounds. Infections can occur throughout the summer. Kabatina juniperi attacks one year old growth in the fall, with symptoms showing up in early spring. The fungus may enter the plant throughwounds, as well. If wet weather prevails, these fungi will spread throughout the shrub in the course of a few years or less. Sclerophoma pythiophila attacks shoots weakened by winter injury.

Management Strategies

Infected twigs and branches should be pruned off about two inches back into live wood, and then prunings should be destroyed. Prune only when plants are dry, and sterilize tools between each cut by swabbing them with a solution containing 1 part rubbing alcohol and 3 parts water or use a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts water.

Plants should be spaced so as to provide good ventilation. This will reduce high moisture conditions which favor these diseases. Water in early morning only. Wounding during transplanting and during cultivation should be avoided for similar reasons. Do not over-fertilize. Prune out diseased branch tips during dry weather, but avoid excessive shearing.

In New York State no fungicides are specifically registered for use against Sclerophoma. Kabatina may be listed on some thiophanate-methyl labels, but most of those products are restricted-use and not available for homeowner use. Most products that are available for homeowner use are specifically labeled for treating Phomopsis or more generally labeled to treat “twig blight” on Juniper. These include some products containing the active ingredients potassium bicarbonate or propiconazole. Heritage (EPA Reg. #100-1093) is also labeled for Phomopsis, but treatments should he alternated with a pesticide with a different mode of action. Some products will require the addition of a spreader-sticker and should be applied every 2 weeks throughout the growing season. Follow label directions, and be certain any formulation(s) of pesticide(s) you purchase are registered for the intended use.

Additional products may be available for commercial use. Commercial applicators should refer to the appropriate commercial pest management guidelines, or contact their local Cooperative Extension office for more information on currently registered products.

READ THE LABEL BEFORE APPLYING ANY PESTICIDE!  Changes in pesticide regulations occur constantly. All pesticides distributed, sold, and/or applied in New York State must be registered with the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC). Questions concerning the legality and/or registration status for pesticide use in New York State should be directed to the appropriate Cornell Cooperative Extension Specialist or your regional DEC office.

 

 

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Types of Landscape Mulch Installation Springfield MO
04 Mar

Root Ball Myths

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Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor,
Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University

The Myth of Collapsing Root Balls
“Balled and burlapped root balls must be left intact during transplanting”

The Myth

While shopping for trees at my favorite nursery, we recently overheard another customer ask a staff person about installing her newly purchased B&B tree. “When I plant my tree I should take off the burlap and twine, right?” she asked. “Oh no,” exclaimed the staffer. “You don’t want to disturb the root ball. Just peel the burlap back from the trunk and leave the rest intact. Otherwise, the root ball will collapse and the tree will die.”

At first glance, this appears to be reasonable advice. Balled and burlapped, or B&B trees, are much heavier than containerized plants and one can visualize the root ball collapsing and crushing the root system. The weight of the root ball also helps stabilize the tree and prevent tilting or falling. Finally, the root ball soil contains beneficial microbes and other soil organisms that can help ease transplant shock to the root system. With these benefits in mind, why would you consider doing anything differently?

The Reality

Many nurseries will not guarantee their plant materials if the customer disturbs the root ball, so customers are loathe to do anything that might negate this policy. This is unfortunate, as disturbing the root ball is exactly what you want to do to maximize survival of your newly transplanted tree.

A previous column discussed how to transplant containerized plant materials properly, and some of the same issues apply to B&B trees as well. The most important reason to disturb the root ball of a balled and burlapped tree is to inspect the root system. The circling, girdling, kinked, and hooked root systems often found in containerized plants occur frequently with B&B materials, too. Nearly every B&B tree I have purchased and installed, either in my own landscape or as part of a project, has had serious root defects. By removing the heavy clay one can find and correct many of these defects. Without corrective pruning these defects will significantly lower the life span of your tree. Remember, root pruning stimulates the growth and development of new roots that will enhance tree establishment in the landscape.

A second reason to break up the root ball is to remove the clay soil that makes the tree so heavy in the first place. Most B&B trees are grown in a soil with clay characteristics so that when the tree is dug the root ball it will hold its shape: sandy soil will simply fall away from the roots. The clay soil not only maintains its shape but also retains water, so that B&B materials are usually more stable in terms of optimal water conditions during the time they are out of the ground. When the tree is planted into the landscape, however, the clay character of the soil is often different than that of the surrounding native soil. Differences between soil textures will impede water movement and therefore inhibit root establishment.

A final reason to remove the bagging materials and root ball soil is that many of the B&B specimens at the nursery have been burlapped too high during field digging and bagging. Burlap and soil that covers the trunk above the root crown will lead to trunk disease and death. In every nursery I’ve visited I have found more than one tree trunk literally rotting in the bag. Before purchasing any B&B stock you should ensure that a healthy trunk lives beneath the burlap.

 The best practice for transplanting B&B trees is relatively straight-forward. (The rationale for many of the practices listed below are detailed in previous B&B columns):
1) Remove all wire baskets, twine, and burlap from the root ball. Working on top of a tarp will allow you to transport the root ball remnants elsewhere.
2) Remove all clay from the root ball. This can be done most easily by using a water bath or a hose. Use your fingers to work out clumps of clay from between the roots.
3) Look for and prune out defects in your freshly denuded roots. Be sure to keep the roots moist during this procedure and work in the shade if possible.
4) Dig the planting hole to be only as deep as the root system and at least twice as wide. The hole will resemble a shallow bowl.
5) Form a soil mound in the center of the hole to support the root crown of the tree, and arrange the roots radially.
6) Backfill with native soil; do not use any type of soil amendment.
7) Water in well, preferably using the water from step 2 which will contain nutrients and microbes. Do not step on the root zone, but gently firm using your hands. Add an appropriate fertilizer (i.e. primarily nitrogen and little or no phosphorus)
8) Mulch the entire planting region with at least 4” of organic mulch, keeping a buffer between the trunk and the mulch to prevent disease.
9) Stake your tree low and loose with 3 stakes for no longer than one year after planting.
10) Keep your tree well watered during the first year of establishment. You may have removed a good portion of the root system and its ability to take up water and nutrients will be temporarily impaired. Do not succumb to the temptation to crown prune or add expensive, but pointless, transplant supplements.
This method is radically different from historically accepted practices. Yet recent and ongoing research demonstrates that bare-rooting B&B trees leads to substantial increases in tree establishment and survival. Investing the time to prepare and install trees properly will pay future dividends of reduced maintenance and mortality for the lifetime of your landscape.
The Bottom Line
    • Balled and burlapped plant materials usually contain soil significantly different than that of the transplant site.
    • Differences in soil texture will impede both water movement and root establishment.
    • Root defects can only be found and corrected if root ball soil is removed.
    • Proper root preparation combined with best practices for installation will greatly improve tree establishment and survival in any landscape.

For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scott’s web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com

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Additional Tree Disease Resources (2015) - Tree Service Company Springfield MO
04 Mar

Buying a Tree Handout

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The 2 Most Important Considerations When Buying a Tree

1.)The Goal or Purpose of the Tree

What do you want out of your new tree? Is the tree’s purpose to provide shade or privacy? Is the tree just ornamental and for aesthetics? Are we trying to attract wildlife with the tree?

Different trees are used for shade versus privacy. Shade trees tend to be tall. Often times shade trees are deciduous as well. Oaks, Maples, Ash, and Poplar are all common types of shade trees. Privacy trees are typically evergreen. Privacy trees are often conifers as well. However, not all evergreens are conifers though. So sometimes a non-coniferous tree such as a holly or magnolia tree can be used for privacy due to their evergreen qualities.

Ornamental and Specimen trees are used strictly to enhance the look and diversity of a landscape. These can consist of many types of trees because they are not intended to cover a specific area for privacy or grow a certain height for shade. Often certain specimen trees can be planted to coincide with various wildlife. For example, a customer who enjoys watching the squirrels run around the yard would probably want to plant an oak, hickory, or walnut tree so that the nuts can attract more squirrels.

2.)Long-Term Maintenance of the Tree

How much trimming does each variety of tree require? Does the tree shed twigs or bark? What kind of fruit/nut/seed does the tree produce? What are the potential pest and disease problems with the tree?

It is going to take a significant amount of knowledge about various trees to answer these questions. We recommend that our customers consider the goal or purpose of their tree. Our goal is to help to educate customers on any long-term maintenance considerations so that they can make a quality decision on what trees they want to install. We typically address these considerations during one of our free estimate and consultation meetings. If you are in Springfield, Nixa, or Ozark, Missouri, just give us a call at (417) 837-1578. We can set everything up to guide you through the tree selection process.

If you are out of our area, we recommend you find a local ISA Certified Arborist. Go towww.isa-arbor.com and use the “Find an Arborist” tool to locate an Arborist in your area

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04 Mar

Shrub Plant Watering Practices

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How to Water Your New Shrubs and Plants

There are many exceptions to the following guidelines. Species specific research is encouraged for customers interested in the proper maintenance of their trees.

The #1 cause of death for new plants in urban landscapes is over watering. Over watering can push all of the oxygen out of the soil and actually choke a plant to death faster than under watering will kill the plant of dehydration. Be sure water is draining from your plant so it isn’t sitting in a puddle of water for an extended period of time after watering. Poorly draining soils will require much less water than outlined below

The key is to keep the soil around the root system moist, without drowning the plants. Touching the ground and feeling the soil moisture at the base of your plant is always the best way to determine watering needs. If the ground is really wet, don’t water. If the ground is really dry, consider watering more often or a few seconds longer than outlined below.

Avoid letting water splash on plant leaves if at all possible, particularly if watering after 8 a.m. The best time of day to water is between 4-8 a.m.

After the initial establishment, plants should be watered once or twice a month for the first 1-2 years, even during the winter, if/when weather permits, and especially during summer. We recommend hand watering plants during the first 2-4 weeks because it is a significantly more effective way to water plants evenly and/or detect plants which go into decline before it’s too late to utilize our replacement warranty.

Weeks Since Planted      Watering Schedule using a Hose@ Full Pressure

1-2                                     Once daily (3-6 seconds)

3-6                                     3x/Week (3-6 seconds)

7-8                                      1x/Week (5-10 seconds)

Weeks Since Planted        Using Irrigation System

1-2                                         Daily watering at half of normal watering time(Twice daily during Summer heat)

3-8                                        3x/week (regular watering schedule)

*Increase frequencies of watering to daily to compensate for additional water loss from temperatures above 85*F. Decrease frequencies of watering to compensate for lack of water loss during temperatures below 45*F

By Landscape Design Company Springfield MO, Landscape Shrub Installation Springfield MO, Landscaping Services Springfield MO, Lawn Maintenance, News, Shrub Care Service, Water Features Springfield MO , , , 0 Comments
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Sod Installation Springfield MO
04 Mar

Grass Watering for Sod-Seed

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How to Water Your New Sod and/or Grass Seed

  • For temperatures above 85oF increase frequency of watering not the length of the watering times
  • During periods of cold weather (45oF and below) the watering cycle can be decreased to once a week or once every other week
  • Water less than prescribed below when there are significant amounts of rainfallon the seed or sod
  • If there is excessive rainfall you may skip a water ingcycle as long as the ground is sufficiently moist
  • Touch the ground with your hands or bare feet to feel for excessive moisture and/or dry/hard ground
  • This is the best way to determine watering needs
  • If the ground is squishy, you sink in, or it splashes water and mud when patting your foot on the ground, don’t water for that day.
  • If the ground is hard or dry to the touch, it can be watered
  • The key to establishment is to keep the soil around the root system moist
  • The best time of day to water is between 4-8 a.m.(this will minimize your chances for disease development in new sod) and it is the time of day when up take of water and nutrients is most active

Weeks Since Planted     Watering Schedule using a Hose

1-2                                     Once daily (3-6 seconds) per sqft

3-6                                      3x/Week (3-6 seconds) per sqft

7-8                                      1x/Week (5-10 seconds) per sqft

Weeks Since Planted       Using Irrigation System

1-2                                      Daily watering at half of normal watering time(Twice daily during Summer heat)

3-8                                    3x/week (regular watering schedule)

* Continue watering as outlined for light rain events

By Landscape Design Company Springfield MO, Landscape Installation Springfield MO, Landscaping Services Springfield MO, News, Sod Installation Springfield MO, Water Features Springfield MO , , , , , 0 Comments
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04 Mar

Tree Watering Practices

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Tree Watering Practices

How to Water Your New Trees

There are many exceptions to the following guidelines. Species-specific research is encouraged for customers interested in the proper maintenance of their trees.

Trees prefer a larger volume of water, provided a little less frequently, relative to smaller plants. The key to establishment is to keep the soil around the root system moist. The root system is generally 12 to 18 inches deep on most trees. A slower deeper watering is more effective at reaching 12 to 18 inches deep.

Over watering can push all of the oxygen out of the soil and actually choke a plant to death faster than underwatering will kill the plant of dehydration. Be sure water is draining from your plant so it isn’t sitting in a puddle of water for an extended period of time after watering. Poorly draining soils will require much less water than outlined below. Touching the ground and feeling the soil moisture at the base of your tree is always the best way to determine watering needs.

Avoid letting water splash on the leaves of your tree, if possible. The best time of day to water is between 4-8 a.m. After the initial establishment, trees should be watered once or twice a month for the first 1-2 years, even during the winter, if/when weather permits, and especially during summer.

We don’t recommend relying on a lawn irrigation system to adequately water your trees. While the in-ground sprinklers will reduce water needs, trees will still need supplemental watering from a hose.

Weeks Since Planted             Frequency/Durationusing a Hose

1-2                                              Once daily @ 20-30 seconds/tree

3-6                                              3x/Week @ 20-30 seconds/tree

7-8                                              1x/Week @ 30-60 seconds/tree*

Increase frequencies of watering to daily to compensate for additional water loss from temperatures above 85*F. Decrease frequencies of watering to compensate for lack of water loss during temperatures below 45*F.

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04 Mar

Fall Aerating and Over-Seeding

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Fall Aerating and Over-Seeding

What is Aeration and How to Prepare for Aeration and Over-seeding?

“Aeration” or “core aeration” is the process of exposing your soil to the air by removing plugs of soil from the turf. This basic maintenance practice improves soil structure. Soil structure significantly impactsthe availability of the critical elements of plant life in a soil. These critical elements (oxygen, water, and nutrients) are more readily available in a regularly aerated area. Over time, aeration increases the quality and health of grass and trees during by promoting thicker and deeper root growth.

Most lawns in our area should be aerated once a year. A lawn experiencing heavy traffic or extensive soil structure damage may need to be aerated twice a year for the first few years in order to maintain a quality soil structure.

How to Prepare for Aeration & Over-seeding:

Look for the utility markings in the yard & mark your private lines

  • We have public utilities marked through MO-One Call (1-800-DIG-RITE) to avoid shallow telecommunications lines
  • Place flags or spray turf-safe paint on any irrigation heads not along a curb or concrete edge, AND on invisible dog fences, OR on any other private underground lines

Make sure ground is soft for best results

  • Try to water the day or two prior to aerating service if ground is very dry and hard
  • Please don’t water the day of aerating services
  • “Soaked” and “soft” are not the same

After Aeration and Over-seeding:

  • Water in grass seed immediately following aerationAfter Aeration and Over-seeding:
  • Continue normal watering schedules until the beginning of November (if weather permits)
  • Leave the soil plugs on the lawn because they break down and filter back into holes left by the aerationmachine
  • Mow yard once or twice during the first 8-10 days after seeding
  • Avoid mowing and other traffic on lawn for the following 10-14 days after the initial 8-10 day period post-seeding
  • Regular mowing can resume around the 3rd-4th week following aeration (it is recommended to skipmowing for a week or two during the 2nd to 3rd week following seeding
  • Don’t expect instant results: Aeration and Over-seeding starts to make the most visual impact after two or three years of Fall aeration and over-seeding.
  • If you were aerated and over-seeded towards the end of the Fall “seeding window,” expect to see your results in late Spring, early Summer.
  • If you were aerated and over-seeded during the Spring “seeding window,” expect to see your results early Summer or when it cools down in the Fall. Often times Spring aeration and over-seeding is performed more for soil structure improvements than for seed establishment.
  • It is rare to see great results the same season the service is provided.
  • The results of regular annual aeration are cumulative, so consistently performing this maintenance to a lawn area is critical to achieving sustainable results.

If for some reason after aerating and seeding and you did not get the results you wanted, there could be an underlying issue such as: high traffic, pest problem, your soil pH won’t release nutrients properly, your soil is still overly compacted, thatch buildup, etc. Call and schedule a free consultation/estimate to address any of your lawn or landscaping concerns.

By Landscape Design Company Springfield MO, Landscaping Companies Springfield MO, Landscaping Services Springfield MO, Lawn Aeration, News , , , , , 0 Comments
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