Water Features Springfield MO

Additional Tree Disease Resources (2015) - Tree Service Company Springfield MO
05 Mar

Urban Tree Decline

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Urban Tree Decline

Tree species affected: Deciduous trees

Issues: Thinning crown, progressive die back over several years, vigorous shoots below die back, death

Description: Tree decline is the gradual loss of tree health and vigor over time. The decline isn’t a specific disease but rather a combination of stress factors working together over a few to several years to eventually cause tree death. These stress factors can be living or non-living and can act singly, in concert, or in succession. Determining causes of decline requires careful examination of the tree and grow-ing site as well as knowledge of the tree’s history. Diagnosis can be more difficult when the original stress factor is obscure or no longer present. A tree can be pre-disposed to decline because of its age, the site in which it grows, or competition with other trees. Decline is then triggered by inciting factors such as:

  • mower or string trimmer damage
  • topping & other poor pruning practices
  • ice & wind storm damage
  • drought
  • flooding
  • late-season frost
  • severe winter weather
  • defoliation by insects or diseases
  • improper planting
  • improper mulching
  • stem-girdling roots
  • acute pollution
  • increased pollution levels over time
  • herbicide damage
  • nutrient deficiencies
  • excessive salt accumulation
  • excessive fertilizer
  • soil compaction
  • changes in soil grade
  • changes in soil pH
  • construction damage
  • installing impervious surfaces
  • changes in water availability
  • changes in sunlight availability

Trees survive stress temporarily by using stored energy reserves. When these reserves are depleted, symptoms begin showing. This may take 2-3 years or longer after a stress episode to become noticeable. Declining trees have fewer or weaker defenses against insects and disease. These trees are susceptible to a wide array of secondary stress factors, including Armillaria root rot, Hypoxylon canker, several defoliating diseases, and various insect borers and foliage feeders. It is often these secondary invaders that finally kill the tree.

Symptoms and Signs: Initial symptoms of tree decline may include delayed spring leaf emergence, premature fall coloration, and leaf drop, and a thinning crown as twigs die back and fewer leaves are produced. Leaves may be small and pale with scorched edges during summer. Vigorous shoots are common along the trunk and lower branches. Branch dieback becomes more prominent as the decline progresses, especially high in the tree’s crown. Bark may fall off sections of trunk or branches. Stressed trees may produce heavy seed crops. Wood-boring insect holes, woodpecker damage, or mushrooms are indications of advanced stages of decline.

Recommendation: Trees in severe decline (50% or more of the crown affected) are unlikely to recover and should be removed to reduce hazards to people and property. Increase vigor of less symptomatic trees through the following good tree care practices:

  • Water 2-3 times per month during extended dry periods. Provide water gradually to promote infiltration. To determine the total watering time needed using a hose set at medium pressure (2 gallons per minute), multiply the tree’s diameter (in inches) by 5 minutes.
  • Mulch trees with a 3 inch-thick layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or wood chips, within the drip line area to encourage growth of the tree’s fine feeder roots and prevent moisture loss.
  • Selectively prune dead or dying branches to improve appearance and reduce attraction of wood-boring insects.
  • Conduct a soil test to determine nutrient levels and fertilize only if necessary (soilplantlab.missouri.edu). Do not apply fertilizer from mid-summer through mid-fall as applications at this time can damage stressed trees by promoting growth that is more susceptible to winter injury and more attractive to insects.

Prevention:Keeping your tree healthy is the best way to prevent decline.

  • Water trees during establishment and drought periods.
  • Prevent soil compaction, changes to soil grade, and mechanical injury to the trunk and roots during construction and yard maintenance.
  • Plant the right tree in the right place by carefully considering the planting site as well as a tree species’ biological requirements and growth qualities. Consult tree planting guides to avoid improper planting practices.
  • Grow native! Plant trees native to Missouri as they are more likely to tolerate the soils and climate found here.
  • Prevent repeated insect and fungal defoliations with appropriate management techniques. Be sure to accurately identify what is affecting your tree before treating it.
  • Avoid excessively fertilizing or liming your trees.
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Irrigation and Drainage Services - Lawn Irrigation Springfield MO
05 Mar

Troubleshooting for Irrigation

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Troubleshooting for Irrigation

The best way to troubleshoot electrical system problems within an irrigation system is with a step-by-step approach. The method detailed below isolates and checks each of the irrigation components: the controller, zone control valves and the wiring that connects it all together.

Step 1: Check the Obvious

Before launching a thorough system diagnosis, don’t forget to check the obvious. Is the system water supply on? Are there isolation valves at the backflow preventer, pump station or in the mainline that are preventing water from flowing? Has the flow control on the valve been turned all of the way off? Reviewing these factors up front can save time and effort.

Step 2: Make Sure You Don’t Have a Programming Error

If the zone operates fine manually using the controller’s manual mode, but does not operate automatically, this usually indicates a programming error rather than an electrical problem. Review the controller’s programming guide and look for data entry mistakes.

Step 3: Know How to Use a Volt ohm Meter

An inexpensive volt ohm meter will be your most valuable tool and a required component for successful electrical trouble shooting. Volt ohm meters can be purchased in the electrical supplies section of a local hardware store, electronics shop (like Radio Shack) or your local irrigation equipment supplier. Modern digital meters are more reliable and provide an easy to read display that can give precise quantitative feedback of the system symptoms.

Step 4: Is the Controller Operational?

After these preliminary steps, you’re now ready to check the controller itself. A blank LCD display, or failure to respond to keyboard entries, could indicate a lack of power to the unit or other damage. Begin by using your volt ohm meter to take a voltage reading of the primary incoming power, to the controller. It should read somewhere between 110 to 125 volts. If it doesn’t, you’ve found your problem. But, it’s seldom that easy. In some cases, you’ll notice that the display of the controller is scrambled, missing LED segments or the entire unit is “frozen” preventing buttons or dials from entering data. This is a symptom of “micro processor lock up,” where the primary brain of the controller has become confused with bad data from electrical surges or other causes. This can often be cleared by re setting the device. Reset the controller by either disconnecting all electrical and battery power from the unit for several minutes, or by pressing a “reset” button which clears the memory of the processor and reboots the system.

Step 5: Check for a Tripped Breaker or Blown Fuse

If the controller passes these tests, next check the station output of the controller to the valves that control the area that is not being irrigated. Again using the volt ohm meter, you can check to see if the output terminals indicate the 24 volts needed to open a standard solenoid. If you do not get a reading here, you should check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker within the controller. Also check the output of the transformer in the controller to make sure that it is outputting correct voltage. A blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker in most controllers indicates an overload condition in the field not a problem with the controller. If one of these conditions is present, you can certainly replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker, however this will not solve the root cause of the problem with either the field wiring or valve solenoid.

If you are fortunate to have a top of the line controller, you may have the benefit of a more modern feature called “automatic short circuit detection” which is a specialized self diagnostic system within the controller itself. This handy feature allows the controller to identify a zone that has a fault in the field wire or valve and skip over the affected zone, eliminating a blown fuse. The best part of this feature is that the controller will digitally display a message that says: “Station 3 Error” to assist with locating the valve or field wire problem.

Step 6: Check Field Wiring

If the controller, transformer and station outputs all work properly, the next place to check is the field wiring. And this happens to be the most common place where unforeseen problems can occur.

Use the volt ohm meter and perform an “ohm test” on a specific zone circuit (common wire plus station wire), with the controller power turned off. At this point, you will want to be certain the volt ohm meter is set to the correct resistance setting so that the unit provides accurate and measurable feedback. Make sure to disconnect the wires you are testing from the controller terminal block so that your reading is specific to the wires in the field, and not mixed up with feedback through the circuits of the controller. The “ohm test” will send a pulse of current from the battery in the volt meter through the circuit. A normal reading is 20 to 60 ohms.

If the circuit has a “short,” meaning the current is taking a shortcut back to the controller, the reading may be as low as 1 to 10 ohms. If the circuit is completely broken, you will get an infinity reading, meaning there is no clear path for the electricity to flow back through the circuit and to the volt ohm meter.

A reading of a high number, but not infinity, would indicate that there is still an intact circuit, but there is a high amount of resistance in the circuit that is keeping current from flowing efficiently enough to activate a solenoid valve. This is a common symptom of a bad electrical connection, usually an underground splice that was not properly waterproofed.

Test each circuit from the controller and you will notice a pattern. The good circuits will have similar readings and the bad circuit will stand out from the others. This gives you confidence in the process and helps you work specifically to the final step of checking the valve solenoid.

Step 7: Check the Valve Solenoid

The final step in a systematic approach is to decide whether diagnosed problems in the field wiring are related to the wiring and splices, or to the specific solenoid on the valve. At this point, you will move to the actual location of the valve in the field and cut into the wires leading into the solenoid to take an ohm reading of the solenoid’s resistance. Typically, if the solenoid is bad, you will get a reading for a “short” or 1 to 10 ohms. (There is no need to test voltage at the valve since you have already “ohm tested” each circuit at the controller so you know which zones have problems.)

How To Sharpen Your Trouble Shooting Skills

Electrical trouble shooting an irrigation control system using this step by process takes time to learn, and requires a willingness to try multiple approaches before finding the solution to your problem. Many irrigation manufacturers and distributors offer training classes on electrical trouble shooting that will give you an opportunity to get hands on experience with this process.

A few hours in an irrigation trouble shooting course can provide valuable training for that hot summer day when you face stressed turf – and a system that will not operate!

 

 

 

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Watering Trees, Plants and Shrubs - Lawn Sprinkler Design Springfield MO
05 Mar

FAQ on Backflow

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Backflow Prevention – Frequently Asked Questions

What is backflow?

Backflow is the undesirable reversal of flow in a potable water distribution system through across-connection. A cross-connection is an actual or potential link connecting a source of pollu-tion or contamination with a potable water supply. Backflow may allow liquids, gases, nonpotablewater and other substances, from any source, to enter a public water system.

How does backflow occur?

Backflow may occur due to high pressure on the customer side, or low pressure in the watersystem. Backflow through a cross-connection can contaminate the potable water in a building,on a block, or throughout an entire water system.

What is backflow prevention?

Backflow prevention protects public water systems from contamination or damage throughcross-connections located in customer facilities. Backflow prevention is typically achieved byplacing a backflow prevention assembly between the customer and the public water system.This is called containment backflow prevention.

Does my water system require backflow prevention?

Missouri’s backflow prevention regulation (10 CSR 60-11.010) applies to all community watersystems. These are water systems that serve at least 15 connections or at least 25 people on ayear-round basis. Missouri has more than 1,400 community water systems. They serve morethan 4.9 million people, almost 90 percent of the state population.

Must my home or business have backflow prevention?

Many businesses must have back flow prevention. Common examples are manufacturing andprocessing plants, medical facilities, laboratories (including school chemistry and biology labs),and buildings that have boilers, fire sprinkler systems and irrigation systems.

Solely residential facilities are exempt from the rule unless a specific cross-connection is identified. For example, single-family residences with a lawn irrigation system require back flow prevention. Multi-family residences with a boiler or fire sprinkler system require back flow prevention.

Call your local water supplier to confirm whether or not back flow prevention is required at your home or business.

What kind of back flow prevention is required at my home or business?

Under the Missouri rule, three types of back flow prevention assemblies are permissible for containment: air gaps, reduced pressure principle assemblies and double check valve assemblies. The type of assembly you need depends on the type of hazard present.

Generally, where you have a back flow hazard that may threaten public health you must havean air gap or a reduced pressure principle assembly. Where there is a lesser hazard that may damage the water system or degrade the aesthetic quality of the water, a double check valve assembly is required.

Only approved back flow prevention assemblies may be used. If you can find the manufacturer and model number on your assembly you can check with your water supplier to find out if it is an approved assembly. Modifications to an assembly invalidate the approval. If your assembly looks like it has been changed, get in touch with your water supplier or a certified back flow prevention assembly tester to see if it is an approved assembly.

Water suppliers may have more strict or specific requirements than the state rule. Contact your local water supplier to make sure you have the appropriate back flow prevention assembly to meet local requirements.

Must I have my back flow prevention assembly inspected?

Yes. To ensure the device is functioning properly, a certified tester must test it at least annually.For new facilities, the assembly must be tested when installed. If the tester finds the assembly is not working, you must arrange to have it repaired and tested again. It is your responsibility to pay for the test and repairs. The tester is required to provide a copy of the test report to you and the water supplier. To obtain a list of certified testers in your area, call your water supplier or the Missouri Department of Natural Resources.

Does the back flow prevention assembly protect my entire facility?

No. The required back flow prevention assembly provides containment and it protects the public water system from hazards in your facility. Cross-connections in your own plumbing may allow contaminants to back flow from hazardous processes to drinking water taps in your building.

Back flow prevention applied within a facility to protect drinking water plumbing from process plumbing is called isolation. Isolation back flow prevention is not covered by departmental rules,but may be required by local plumbing codes. Check with your local code enforcement agencies to see what standards apply to your facility.

Additional Resource:

Cross-Connection Control Manual,

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA 816-R-03-002, February 2003);

For more information

Missouri Department of Natural Resources

Water Protection Program, Public Drinking Water Branch

P.O. Box 176

Jefferson City, MO 65102-0176

1-800-361-4827 or (573) 751-5331 office,

(573) 751-3110 fax

 

 

 

 

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Proper Techniques for Lawn Irrigation - Springfield MO
05 Mar

How to set an Irrigation Controller

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How to set an Irrigation Controller

    1. Date & Time – set up the date and time to match the current date and time
    2. Set Seasonal Adjustment to 100% – Turn your dial to Seasonal Adjust and press the up or down arrows as necessary
    3. Program (A, B, or C)
      1. Pick one program and clear out the rest if anything is set in them
      2. Only set up multiple if you have special circumstances and don’t want to have to re-set original program “start-times” and “run-times”
    4. Set start times for each program
        1. Each program runs all zones for their “run time”

      i. 1 zone may run for 7 minutes
      ii. A program with 10 zones running for 7 minutes will run for 70 minutes total
      1.Therefore, start times must be at least 70 minutes apart or system will malfunction and show some kind of error on the screen
      2.We should never need more than 1 start time on a normal yard
      i.BUT, on new plantings, (bed or bushes) we DO use 2-3 start times so we can water 2-3 times in one day
      ii. Spring and Fall typically need 2 waterings a day and Summer can sometimes require 3 waterings to keep new plants or grass healthy
      iii. Often when we set more than one start time, we would save those settings as a second program (program B)
      1.This allows us to leave the original program exactly as it was so it can be returned to after the establishment period of any new plants

    5. Set run times for each zone

1.At 3x per week:
i.18 minutes on rotor zones & mp-rotator zones
ii.7 minutes on spray zones
iii.25-50 minutes on drip zones
iv. Specific adjustments should be made based on plant type, wind flow, and sun/shade of the area each zone waters

  1. Set days to water1.M WF or Tu Th S for a 3-day a week schedule
    1. M W F or Tu Th S for a 3-day a week schedule
  2. Set seasonal % adjustment for the season
    1. Summer: 100%-120%
    2. Spring/Fall: 40%-80%
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Yard Drainage Systems Springfield MO
05 Mar

Irrigation Pump Education

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Irrigation Pump Education

The pressure is on.  A customer has requested a pump for their irrigation system and they need it within 24 hours. Your palms start sweating. Your mouth goes dry. And your heart could likely pump blood to two full-grown adults at the rate it’s going.

Pause. Take a deep breath.

Helping a customer assess their pump needs doesn’t need to be an impossible task. By understanding the basic hydraulic formulas, pump varieties, and how to size a pump, you can better assist your customer in finding a pump that fits their needs perfectly.

The Magic Numbers: 0.433 and 2.31

Have you ever wondered how many “pumps” would inflate a basketball to the perfect PSI? 0.433 and 2.31 likely aren’t it, but when it comes to traditional pumps, these numbers are the right and left gates to the kingdom of hydraulics. In order to dive into the world of pumps, an individual needs a solid understanding of the vital function these numbers play. They are used in two ways:

1) Feet of Head to Pounds per Square Inch

To convert feet of head to pressure in PSI, multiply the feet by 0.433. One foot of water equals 0.433 PSI.

2) Pounds per Square Inch to Feet of Head

If you have the pressure but need to figure out the feet of the head, multiply the pressure by 2.31. One PSI equals 2.31 feet of water.

Gas or Diesel: Pump Varieties

Once you understand the importance of 0.433 and 2.31, you can confidently move on to the next step in the process—assessing what kind of pump the system needs. There are several varieties of pumps, but two of the most common are submersible pumps and above-ground centrifugal pumps.

Submersible Pumps

Submersible pumps are submerged underwater and out of sight, making them a great option for a homeowner who doesn’t want a pump to become a part of their landscape.

This pump consists of three parts:

  • The motor, which is located at the bottom
  • The intake screen, which is located at the middle
  • The pump itself, which is located at the top

The pump is placed in a PVC pipe with filter screens at the bottom and a well seal on top. The well seal holds the pump and discharge pipe in place. Water is able to enter through the screens (which filter out debris) and then passes over the motor to keep it cool.

Next, it enters into the pump through the intake screen and becomes pressurized by the impellers before exiting through the discharge pipe.

Above Ground Centrifugal Pump

A centrifugal pump uses an impeller to move water, and can lift water from places like a lake or storage tank.

This pump consists of two parts:

  • The motor end
  • The wet end

When the motor on this style of pump spins the impeller, a vacuum is created allowing atmospheric pressure to push water into the pump.

The water is lifted from the source where an underwater filter foot valve is placed and then goes into the suction line, where it is transferred into the pump to become pressurized.

When an irrigation system doesn’t have enough existing pressure, an inline booster pump (another type of centrifugal pump) will increase the PSI, giving the system the right amount of pressure to operate properly.

This pump consists of two parts:

  • The motor end
  • The wet end (hosts the impeller)

Now that we’ve got our feet wet looking at a couple varieties of pumps and their uses, let’s take a look at some of the basic steps to take when it comes to sizing a pump.

If the Shoe Fits: The Basics of Sizing A Pump

The plot thickens, but after reviewing both sections above, you will be up for the task. It’s time to help your customer size their pump. The six steps listed below will help you size a suction lift centrifugal pump.

Step 1: Determine the Elevation

First, determine the elevation in feet from the surface of the water to the pump. Use the hydraulic formula referenced in section one to determine this. Be careful. If the elevation and friction loss on the suction side exceed 20 feet of head, you need to reconsider your pump choice and/or pump location.

Step 2: Identify Suction Side Friction Loss

Next, identify any sources that may cause friction loss throughout your irrigation system on the suction side. You will need to assess the following:

  • Suction line size and length
  • Check valve size
  • Estimate of fitting loss
  • Any other obstructions unique to your system

Once you have identified the PSI loss for all of the above, plug the total into this formula to determine the needed feet of head:
Total PSI loss _____x 2.31= _____ Feet of Head

Step 3: Find the Greatest Pressure

The next thing you need to account for is the greatest pressure that will be required for the type of sprinkler heads your irrigation system uses. Find your type of sprinkler head below, and plug the greatest pressure required for that head into this formula: PSI ____x 2.31=_____ Feet of Head

  • Rotors: 25-90 PSI
  • Sprays: 15-30 PSI
  • Drip: 20-30 PSI

Step 4: Account for Elevation

For this step, simply figure out the elevation in feet from the pump to the highest outlet.

Step 5: Identify Discharge Side Friction Loss

Above, we determined the friction loss for the suction side of the pump. Now we need to define the friction loss for the systems discharge side (also known as the “worst zone”). You will need to assess the following.

  • Mainline size and length
  • Sprinkler valve size
  • Estimate of fitting loss
  • Backflow/filtration

Once you have identified the PSI loss for all of the above, plug the total PSI loss into this formula to determine the needed feet of head:

Total PSI loss _____x 2.31= _____ Feet of Head

Step 6: Total Out The Dynamic Feet of Head

Finally, to figure out the dynamic feet of head your system needs, add the totals from step one through five together.

_____ = Total Feet of Head

Following the step-by-step process listed above will help assist you in determining what kind of a pump is right for your customer’s project. An irrigation pump sizing worksheet, like the one attached at the end of this paper, will help you account for any other information needed to help your customer make an informed pump selection.

After you have completed the Irrigation Pump Sizing Information Worksheet, you should have two numbers: one for the total feet of head, and one for the gallons per minute (GPM). Follow these steps to chart your pump curve:

Step 1: Plot your GPM. It is advised to add a 10 percent safety margin. (Follow the numbers listed along bottom of the graph).

Step 2: Plot your total feet of head. It is advised to add a 10 percent safety margin. (Follow the numbers listed along the left side of the curve).

Step 3: Use a horizontal and vertical axis to determine what a specific flow would be for your total feet of head.

Step 4: Multiply your total feet of head by .433 to get your PSI.

Step 5: The closer the axis intersect is to the center of the curve, the more efficient the pump will be. Remember that all pumps have their own individual curve

Nice work! After completing all of the sections above, you should be able to better assist your customer with their pump selection. Should you encounter additional questions, always refer to a pump expert before making a formal recommendation. You can do so with Ewing’s pump experts at 1-844-PUMP-PRO.

 

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Avoiding Brown Spots In Your Yard - Lawn Care Services Springfield MO
05 Mar

Japanese Beetles

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Japanese Beetles

Tree species affected: Japanese beetles are known to feed on over 300 plant species. Linden (basswood), elm, crabapple, sycamore (planetree), sassafras, plum, cherry, and bald cypress are commonly damaged, as well as grape and rose.

Concerns: Lacy, skeletonized leaves. Partial or entire defoliation.

Description: Japanese beetles feed on the upper surface of leaves, leaving behind veins. Damage is frequently seen near the top of the tree or plant first. These beetles often feed in groups.

Insecticides are not compatible with trying to maintain a pollinator-friendly yard and should never be used on flower-ing plants or trees that will attract bees and other pollinators.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the lifecycle of the Japanese beetle?

Japanese beetles spend most of their one-year lifecycle under-ground as a white, c-shaped grub. These grubs feed on grass roots and can damage turf if populations are high. Grubs pupate in late spring and emerge from the ground as adult beetles around mid-June in Missouri. These beetles congregate on host plants, particularly those in full sun. Japanese beetles congregate through a combination of pheromones released by females and floral scents emitted by the damaged host. After mating, each female beetle lays 40-60 eggs in the soil over the course of her 30-45 day lifespan. These eggs hatch into grubs in July and August. Most adult Japanese beetles are gone for the year by mid-August.

Will Japanese beetles kill my trees?

Healthy, established trees can typically tolerate a heavy amount of feeding damage. However, this damage is a source of stress for trees. You can help your trees by watering them 2-3 times per month during dry times to avoid additional stress from drought. A good rule of thumb is ten gallons of water per inch of a tree’s diameter.

Should I use a Japanese beetle trap?

Be cautious when using Japanese beetle traps as they are very effective at bringing beetles in from areas well outside of your yard. Traps don’t catch all the beetles they attract, so nearby plants may be heavily damaged. If you decide to use a trap, place it at least 100 feet away from plants you want to protect. Dispose of trapped beetles frequently by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water.

If I control the Japanese beetle grubs in my lawn, will I have fewer beetles next year?

Controlling Japanese beetle grubs in your lawn won’t significantly reduce the number of beetles you see next year. Japanese beetles are strong fliers and can continue to fly in from neighboring areas over a mile away.Grub control may have more of an impact if you live in a forested area where turf grass is uncommon.

How can I control Japanese beetles?

For light infestations on shrubs and young trees, handpicking is an effective method of control. Beetles are typically sluggish and easy to capture early in the morning. Shake stems and branches with Japanese beetles over a bucket of soapy water.

Several contact insecticides are available for control of Japanese beetle adults (e.g. acephate, carbaryl, cyfluthrin, permethrin); check the label to confirm Japanese beetles and your plant species are listed. These chemicals may need to be reapplied at labeled intervals, especially in hot or rainy weather. Organic products containing azadiractin and spinosad are effective deterrents for a few days. Neem oil may be useful in deterring beetles from feeding if used at the first sign of damage.

Systemic insecticides, such as those containing imidacloprid, can be applied as a soil drench to protect some types of trees from Japanese beetles (follow all label restrictions). However, this product would need to be applied in early June in order to be effective since it can take 4-6 weeks for a tree to translocate the chemical from soil to the leaves.

Due to impacts on pollinators, systemic insecticides should not be applied before or during the bloom period on any plant. In addition, use of many IMIDACLOPRID products (e.g. Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub Insect Control) is NOT ALLOWED on LINDEN (BASSWOOD), a common host tree of Japanese beetles.Product labels contain new restrictions due to frequent misuse and impacts on pollinators.

Are there any biological controls for Japanese beetles?

No biological controls are currently available for managing adult Japanese beetles. Two products are available for biological control of Japanese beetle grubs in the soil.Neither product is 100% effective.

  • Milky spore (milky disease bacteria)isa long-term control technique that can help reduce grub populations in 2-3 years. Introduce milky spore into several spots in your yard ina grid pattern.Once in the soil, the spores will be present for many years. Milky spore requires specific temperature and moisture conditions to infect grubs, so effectiveness varies.
  • Nematodes of the Heterorhabditisstrains will attack grubs.Because soil moisture is critical for nematode survival, it can be difficult to maintain proper conditions for nematodes and avoid overwatering plants.Nematodes need to be applied every year up to three times during the grub stage.

What should I do next year to protect my trees?

Keep an eye out in mid-June for Japanese beetles. Handpick beetles off small or newly planted trees. Preventing early feeding damage can protect trees in the following weeks. If populations are too high to remove by hand, spray an insecticide labeled to control Japanese beetles on your particular tree species. Repeat, if needed, at labeled intervals.

For large established trees, help reduce stress caused by Japanese beetle feeding through good tree care practices: water trees 2-3 times per month during drought conditions, avoid wounding by mowers and weed trimmers, and, if used, keep mulch rings no deeper than 3”.

Do weather conditions impact Japanese beetle populations?

Drought conditions in July and August can lead to the death of many newly hatched grubs. During severe droughts, irrigated areas and some low-lying wet locations may be the only places that grubs survive. Harsh winter conditions can also be a limiting factor in Japanese beetle grub survival. Grubs are killed when soil temperatures reach 15°F or when soils remain near 32°F for two months, (snow cover can significantly insulate soils from frigid air). A cold winter without much snow could greatly reduce the following year’s adult beetle population.

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Spring Landscape Checklist - Landscaping Services Springfield MO
05 Mar

Jumping Oak Gall

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Jumping Oak Gall

Tree species affected: White oak (Quercus alba) primarily, and some other white oak group species.Concerns:Leaves on entire crowns of white oak trees turning brown in late spring. In some areas, whole hillsides appear brown

Concerns: Leaves on entire crowns of white oak trees turning brown in late spring. In some areas, whole hillsides appear brown.

Description: High populations of a very tiny, native, stingless wasp (Neuroterussp.) cause pinhead-size galls (abnormal plant growths) to form on the undersides of leaves. Each round, button-like gall contains one wasp larva. Starting at the margins, brown, scorch-like areas appear on leaves where many galls are present. In more severe cases, leaves curl up, turn black, and drop early from trees. Effects of the damage become noticeable in late spring or early summer and remain visible until fall.

Most galls drop from leaves in early summer. Brown pockmarks remain where galls had been attached. Fallen galls are sometimes observed to “jump” due to vigorous movements of larvae within, much like moth larvae of “Mexican jumping beans.” This behavior allows galls to fall deeper into grass and leaf litter where they are sheltered throughout the coming winter.

Many species of gall wasps have two generations per year. It is assumed that the jumping oak gall wasp in Missouri has a similar life history with one generation lasting only a few weeks in early spring and rarely being noticed. The second generation extends from spring through the following winter and causes most of the leaf damage. Outbreaks typically last for one or two years and then fade away as natural controls reduce gall wasp numbers again.

Similar Leaf Issues:  In years with cool wet springs, fungal diseases can be abundant on trees and may also cause leaf browning. Anthracnoseis common on white oak foliage in those conditions. Botryosphaeria twig cankercauses leaves on infected small branches to wilt and turn brown, which results in “flagging” in the canopy during the summer. Typically, twig bark shrivels and turns brown where the canker occurs, near the junction with healthy tissue.

Recommendations: Galls and fungi that affect oak leaves rarely have a significant impact on tree health. Nearly all trees will recover, even if all leaves are brown. Controls are not warranted. By the time the damage is observed, any opportunity to treat has already passed for that year, and populations are likely to decline naturally. However, severe leaf damage stresses trees, particularly if most leaves on a tree are killed which results in a second flush of leaves emerging in summer. The best tactic is using good tree care practices that reduce stress (mulching, watering during drought, avoiding wounds due to lawnmowers and trimmers).

 

 

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Benefits of Landscape Mulch Installation Springfield MO
05 Mar

Juniper Tip Blight

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Juniper Tip Blight

Introduction  

Juniper tip blight, a progressive dying back of twigs and branches, can be caused by one of three fungi, Phomopsis juniperovora, Kabatina juniperi, or Sclerophoma pythiophila. These diseases are devastating to young plants while plants more than five years old are less seriously damaged. In addition to many species of juniper, arborvitae, white cedar, cypress and false-cypress are also susceptible to P. juniperovora. Kabatina juniperi infects juniper species primarily, but S. pythiophila may also infect pines, Douglas-fir, and Eastern

juniperovora and/or K. juniperi infections are involved. Sclerophoma pythiophila usually doesn’t kill whole plants. Drought, freezing, dog urine, and transplant shock can cause similar dieback symptoms. However, if fungi are the cause, they will produce small gray to black fruiting bodies (up to 0.5 mm in diameter) on recently killed leaves and stems and thus aid in diagnosis of juniper tip blights.

Symptoms and Signs

Juniper Tip Blights: Phomopsis juniperovora, Kabatina juniperi, or Sclerophoma pythiophilaJuniper tip blight, a progressive dying back of twigs and branches, can be caused by one of three fungi, Phomopsis juniperovora, Kabatina juniperi, or Sclerophoma pythiophila. These diseases are devastating to young plants while plants more than five years old are less seriously damaged. In addition to many species of juniper, arborvitae, white cedar, cypress and false-cypress are also susceptible to P. juniperovora. Kabatina juniperi infects juniper species primarily, but S. pythiophila may also infect pines, Douglas-fir, and Eastern. Blight symptoms first show up on recent growth of the lower branches. Dieback begins with shoot tips, and progresses back toward the main stem . Death of the entire plant may result where P.

Disease Cycle

All three of these fungi overwinter in killed twigs and bark on the shrub or on the ground. Fruiting bodies of the fungi develop in the spring and, during wet weather, release many spores capable of causing new infections. Phomopsis juniperovora attacks young succulent shoot tips and may also enter the plant through wounds. Infections can occur throughout the summer. Kabatina juniperi attacks one year old growth in the fall, with symptoms showing up in early spring. The fungus may enter the plant throughwounds, as well. If wet weather prevails, these fungi will spread throughout the shrub in the course of a few years or less. Sclerophoma pythiophila attacks shoots weakened by winter injury.

Management Strategies

Infected twigs and branches should be pruned off about two inches back into live wood, and then prunings should be destroyed. Prune only when plants are dry, and sterilize tools between each cut by swabbing them with a solution containing 1 part rubbing alcohol and 3 parts water or use a solution of 1 part household bleach to 9 parts water.

Plants should be spaced so as to provide good ventilation. This will reduce high moisture conditions which favor these diseases. Water in early morning only. Wounding during transplanting and during cultivation should be avoided for similar reasons. Do not over-fertilize. Prune out diseased branch tips during dry weather, but avoid excessive shearing.

In New York State no fungicides are specifically registered for use against Sclerophoma. Kabatina may be listed on some thiophanate-methyl labels, but most of those products are restricted-use and not available for homeowner use. Most products that are available for homeowner use are specifically labeled for treating Phomopsis or more generally labeled to treat “twig blight” on Juniper. These include some products containing the active ingredients potassium bicarbonate or propiconazole. Heritage (EPA Reg. #100-1093) is also labeled for Phomopsis, but treatments should he alternated with a pesticide with a different mode of action. Some products will require the addition of a spreader-sticker and should be applied every 2 weeks throughout the growing season. Follow label directions, and be certain any formulation(s) of pesticide(s) you purchase are registered for the intended use.

Additional products may be available for commercial use. Commercial applicators should refer to the appropriate commercial pest management guidelines, or contact their local Cooperative Extension office for more information on currently registered products.

READ THE LABEL BEFORE APPLYING ANY PESTICIDE!  Changes in pesticide regulations occur constantly. All pesticides distributed, sold, and/or applied in New York State must be registered with the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC). Questions concerning the legality and/or registration status for pesticide use in New York State should be directed to the appropriate Cornell Cooperative Extension Specialist or your regional DEC office.

 

 

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Oak Wilt Disease - Gabris Landscaping Springfield MO
05 Mar

Oak Wilt

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Oak Wilt

Tree species affected: Oaks, especially the red oak group

Concerns:Leaf discoloration and wilt, tree defoliation and death

Description: Oak Wilt is a lethal disease of oaks, especially species in the red oak group. The fungus responsible, Ceratocystis fagacearum, invades the tree, causing it to die. In Missouri, the oak wilt fungus is spread primarily when sap-feeding beetles carry oak wilt spores to fresh wounds during the early part of the growing season. Once established in a tree, oak wilt can move though root grafts connecting nearby oaks.

Symptoms and Signs: The first symptom of oak wilt in red oaks is usually browning and wilting of leaves in the upper crown in early summer (Fig. 1). White oaks often exhibit scattered branches with wilting leaves in the crown (Fig. 2). Wilted leaves display olive drab or light tan to bronze tissue starting at the margins and progressing toward the leaf base (Fig. 3). Brown or black streaking may be seen under the bark of wilted branches in both groups (Fig. 4). Rapid defoliation of red oaks can occur within two to six weeks of initial infection, and death occurs within a year. White oaks may take years to die from the infection. Under ideal conditions, oak wilt fungal mats form under the bark of dead red oaks the spring following tree death (Fig. 5), causing cracks in the bark and emitting a sweet, fermenting odor, attracting sap-feeding insects that spread the fungus. Squirrels may chew through the bark to expose these areas.

Jerral Johnson, Texas Agricultural Extension Service, 1995Fire wood Soil Line Plastic 6April 2013 Recommendation: Once a red oak tree displays extensive crown wilt symptoms, the tree will die. White oaks may survive the disease for several years with careful pruning of infected branches and good tree care. Accurate diagnosis of oak wilt is essential for appropriate treatments as other disorders can look similar. Contact your local MDC forester or see www.npdn.orgfor information on labs that can confirm oak wilt.

Two treatments can be considered to protect healthy, high-value red oak trees near infected trees: a professional arborist can inject fungicide before the trees show symptoms, or grafted roots can be killed through mechanical trenching or chemical applications. Root grafting is less common in Missouri than in some states, and is only likely to occur when oaks of the same species grow in close proximity. Fungicide application is costly, may need to be repeated every 1-3 years, and where root grafting occurs, is most effective when combined with graft disruption.

Counties confirmed with oak wilt in the last decade. The disease could be present in other areas.

Remove diseased trees after they have completely died but before the following spring when fungal mat development is possible. Removal of symptomatic trees prior to death can hasten movement of the fungus to adjacent oaks if root grafts are not first disrupted. Unseasoned firewood from infected trees can spread the disease; however, it is safe to burn, and burning destroys the fungus. Cover potentially infected firewood with 4-mil clear plastic and bury the edges with soil until the end of the following summer (Fig. 6). Landowners with oak wilt in woodlots or forests should consult their local MDC forester for appropriate treatment options.

Prevention: Avoid pruning or damaging oaks from mid-March through June. Oaks become more susceptible to the disease a couple weeks before bud break occurs in the spring. Immediately use commercial tree wound dressings, available from garden centers, on fresh wounds or storm damaged areas during the spring infection period (Fig. 7). Firewood movement should only occur locally to prevent movement of oak wilt and other invasive forest pests to new areas.

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Types of Landscape Mulch Installation Springfield MO
04 Mar

Root Ball Myths

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Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor,
Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University

The Myth of Collapsing Root Balls
“Balled and burlapped root balls must be left intact during transplanting”

The Myth

While shopping for trees at my favorite nursery, we recently overheard another customer ask a staff person about installing her newly purchased B&B tree. “When I plant my tree I should take off the burlap and twine, right?” she asked. “Oh no,” exclaimed the staffer. “You don’t want to disturb the root ball. Just peel the burlap back from the trunk and leave the rest intact. Otherwise, the root ball will collapse and the tree will die.”

At first glance, this appears to be reasonable advice. Balled and burlapped, or B&B trees, are much heavier than containerized plants and one can visualize the root ball collapsing and crushing the root system. The weight of the root ball also helps stabilize the tree and prevent tilting or falling. Finally, the root ball soil contains beneficial microbes and other soil organisms that can help ease transplant shock to the root system. With these benefits in mind, why would you consider doing anything differently?

The Reality

Many nurseries will not guarantee their plant materials if the customer disturbs the root ball, so customers are loathe to do anything that might negate this policy. This is unfortunate, as disturbing the root ball is exactly what you want to do to maximize survival of your newly transplanted tree.

A previous column discussed how to transplant containerized plant materials properly, and some of the same issues apply to B&B trees as well. The most important reason to disturb the root ball of a balled and burlapped tree is to inspect the root system. The circling, girdling, kinked, and hooked root systems often found in containerized plants occur frequently with B&B materials, too. Nearly every B&B tree I have purchased and installed, either in my own landscape or as part of a project, has had serious root defects. By removing the heavy clay one can find and correct many of these defects. Without corrective pruning these defects will significantly lower the life span of your tree. Remember, root pruning stimulates the growth and development of new roots that will enhance tree establishment in the landscape.

A second reason to break up the root ball is to remove the clay soil that makes the tree so heavy in the first place. Most B&B trees are grown in a soil with clay characteristics so that when the tree is dug the root ball it will hold its shape: sandy soil will simply fall away from the roots. The clay soil not only maintains its shape but also retains water, so that B&B materials are usually more stable in terms of optimal water conditions during the time they are out of the ground. When the tree is planted into the landscape, however, the clay character of the soil is often different than that of the surrounding native soil. Differences between soil textures will impede water movement and therefore inhibit root establishment.

A final reason to remove the bagging materials and root ball soil is that many of the B&B specimens at the nursery have been burlapped too high during field digging and bagging. Burlap and soil that covers the trunk above the root crown will lead to trunk disease and death. In every nursery I’ve visited I have found more than one tree trunk literally rotting in the bag. Before purchasing any B&B stock you should ensure that a healthy trunk lives beneath the burlap.

 The best practice for transplanting B&B trees is relatively straight-forward. (The rationale for many of the practices listed below are detailed in previous B&B columns):
1) Remove all wire baskets, twine, and burlap from the root ball. Working on top of a tarp will allow you to transport the root ball remnants elsewhere.
2) Remove all clay from the root ball. This can be done most easily by using a water bath or a hose. Use your fingers to work out clumps of clay from between the roots.
3) Look for and prune out defects in your freshly denuded roots. Be sure to keep the roots moist during this procedure and work in the shade if possible.
4) Dig the planting hole to be only as deep as the root system and at least twice as wide. The hole will resemble a shallow bowl.
5) Form a soil mound in the center of the hole to support the root crown of the tree, and arrange the roots radially.
6) Backfill with native soil; do not use any type of soil amendment.
7) Water in well, preferably using the water from step 2 which will contain nutrients and microbes. Do not step on the root zone, but gently firm using your hands. Add an appropriate fertilizer (i.e. primarily nitrogen and little or no phosphorus)
8) Mulch the entire planting region with at least 4” of organic mulch, keeping a buffer between the trunk and the mulch to prevent disease.
9) Stake your tree low and loose with 3 stakes for no longer than one year after planting.
10) Keep your tree well watered during the first year of establishment. You may have removed a good portion of the root system and its ability to take up water and nutrients will be temporarily impaired. Do not succumb to the temptation to crown prune or add expensive, but pointless, transplant supplements.
This method is radically different from historically accepted practices. Yet recent and ongoing research demonstrates that bare-rooting B&B trees leads to substantial increases in tree establishment and survival. Investing the time to prepare and install trees properly will pay future dividends of reduced maintenance and mortality for the lifetime of your landscape.
The Bottom Line
    • Balled and burlapped plant materials usually contain soil significantly different than that of the transplant site.
    • Differences in soil texture will impede both water movement and root establishment.
    • Root defects can only be found and corrected if root ball soil is removed.
    • Proper root preparation combined with best practices for installation will greatly improve tree establishment and survival in any landscape.

For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scott’s web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com

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