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Benefits of Mulching During Leaf Removal Springfield MO

Benefits of Mulching During Leaf Removal Springfield MO

Once Fall arrives and the leaves begin to cover your yard, we get lots of phone calls for leaf removal. People often ask us: Should you remove the leaves? What can you do besides removal? And, what do those leaves do to the soil if they are not removed?

If you want quality turf in the spring and your home has a lot of leaves in your yard, then you need to do something about those leaves. Turf needs sunlight to thrive. Turfgrass leaves must be exposed to sunlight to assist in the process of photosynthesis. One thing to consider is removing all the leaves entirely.

We can’t perform our other lawn and landscape winterization services (dethatching, fertilizing, aerating, bed mulching, etc.) if you have a serious layer of leaves in your yard.

Another course of action is chopping up or “mulching” those leaves. If you have a fairly deep or thick layer of fallen leaves, having them all chopped up does not necessarily alleviate the sunlight exposure issue. But providing organic material to your lawn, ornamental beds and soil is a good thing. Having a good amount of organic material in your soil increases aeration and soil tilth. Mulching leaves certainly assists in accomplishing that mission.

There are other considerations too. Certain leaves, from certain cultivars of trees, can alter the pH of your soil. Oak trees make the soil acidic just by being there – and the leaves make the soil even more acidic and below what is desired for most turfgrass soil. Pine needles, for example, can also increase the acidity of soil.

That’s why we do a combination of leaf removal with mulching during our leaf removal services by putting mulching blades on our mowers. Mulching mowers chop up leaves (turfgrass clippings, just about everything) more finely. It basically holds things inside the mower deck longer and chops the stuff up more. It saves you additional fertilizer applications, improves soil tilth and reduces thatch. It allows your grass clippings to decompose faster.

When you want those leaves removed but still want to consider that is best for your lawn, consider a combination of leaf mulching and leaf removal.

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Fall Care For Healthy Spring Lawns - Grass Over-seeding and Lawn Aeration Springfield MO

Fall Care For Healthy Spring Lawns – Grass Over-seeding and Lawn Aeration Springfield MO

Chances are, most people who care about their lawn already regularly invest time, resources and money to keep it greener, thicker and healthier. Mowing regularly with blades set at least 3 inches or higher is one important aspect an owner can easily provide towards achieving desirable beauty and health, but other aspects are often better left to an expert. As fall approaches, core lawn aeration and grass over-seeding are two other important actions that are often overlooked, yet two of the best chemical-free ways to improve the overall health and appearance of your lawn.

Core lawn aeration is the process of removing small plugs of soil and thatch from the lawn area. A stronger root system with more nutrient storage capacity translates into a greener and healthier lawn, including natural weed control and pest prevention. Two important reasons for regular core aeration are thatch decomposition and soil compaction relief.

Thatch is the decaying area of material between the soil and the green part of your grass. Some thatch area is normal and good; however, half an inch or more is not! It prevents light, water, air and vital nutrients from getting deeper to the root area of your lawn. Some problems created by excess thatch are shallow roots, increased susceptibility to disease and insect-related problems, more frequent need of water, and less tolerance to heat and drought. Simply put, core aeration promotes the breakdown of the thatch layer.

Soil compaction is the natural process of settling that occurs in soil. This is a particular problem when soil is clay based, as it generally is in many areas of Missouri. Compaction also is compounded in lawn areas that endure heavy usage or foot traffic by people, pets, vehicles or machinery, and in times of low moisture or drought. Many lawns suffer from compaction and heavy thatch following drought.

When soil is compacted, water runs off the top more easily, air and nutrients are unable to reach into the soil as deeply, and it is a difficult environment for turf roots to expand and strengthen. Fall core aeration provides an enhanced opportunity for root development during the time of year when lawns are instinctively working to establish a more vigorous root system. The holes created through core aeration allow turf roots to more easily expand during this stage of root development.

Grass over-seeding is simply the spreading of new seed over the lawn area after core aerating. As the plugs of soil on the lawn’s surface break down, they come in contact with and protect the new seed. Other seed finds a safe place in the empty plugholes and, in a few weeks, you have new grass establishing itself in your lawn. It is important to overseed evenly to avoid a patchwork quilt appearance of varied colors or turf varieties. Spring and fall provide the best environment for seed due to favorable temperatures and moisture, which are important for germination.

Most lawns benefit from annual core lawn aeration. Spring and fall are both ideal times to core aerate and overseed. In spring, we recommend aerating between March and May. In fall, we aerate between September and November. Core aeration before or at the time of late-season fertilization enhances root growth and improves spring green up.

After aeration, your lawn should also be able to go longer between moisture without showing signs of wilt. With repeat aerations over time, your lawn will show enhanced heat and drought stress tolerance. Lawns that receive annual core aerations will be healthier, more vigorous, easier to maintain and less susceptible to pest problems.

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Leave Pruning To The Experts - Shrub Care Service Springfield MO

Leave Pruning To The Experts – Shrub Care Service Springfield MO

Proper pruning enhances the beauty of almost any landscape tree and shrub, while improper pruning can ruin or greatly reduce its landscape potential. In most cases, it is better not to prune than to do it incorrectly. In nature, plants go years with little or no pruning, but man can ruin what nature has created. By using improper pruning methods healthy plants are often weakened or deformed. In nature, every plant eventually is pruned in some manner.

It may be a simple matter of low branches being shaded by higher ones resulting in the formation of a collar around the base of the branch restricting the flow of moisture and nutrients. Eventually the leaves wither and die and the branch then drops off in a high wind or storm. Often, tender new branches of small plants are broken off by wild animals in their quest for food. In the long run, a plant growing naturally assumes the shape that allows it to make the best use of light in a given location and climate. All one needs to do to appreciate a plant’s ability to adapt itself to a location is to walk into a wilderness and see the beauty of natural growing plants.

Pruning, like any other skill, requires knowing what you are doing to achieve success. The old idea that anyone with a chain saw or a pruning saw can be a landscape pruner is far from the truth. More trees are killed or ruined each year from improper pruning than by pests. Remember that pruning is the removal or reduction of certain plant parts that are not required, that are no longer effective, or that are of no use to the plant. It is done to supply additional energy for the development of flowers, fruits, and limbs that remain on the plant.

Pruning involves removing plant parts to improve the health, landscape effect, or value of the plant. It’s best to leave the pruning to the shrub care service experts at Gabris Landscaping.

By making the pruning cuts in a certain order, the total number of cuts is reduced greatly. Our skilled pruners first remove all dead, broken, diseased or problem limbs by cutting them at the point of origin or back to a strong lateral branch or shoot. Often, removing this material opens the canopy sufficiently so that no further pruning is necessary.

The next step in pruning is to make any training cuts needed. By cutting back lateral branches, the tree or shrub is trained to develop a desired shape, to fill in an open area caused by storm or wind damage or to keep it in bounds to fit a given area. To properly train a plant, one should understand its natural growth habit. We always strive to avoid destroying the natural shape or growth habit when pruning.

Pruning can actually be done at any time of the year. However, recommended times vary with different plants. Contrary to popular belief, pruning at the wrong time of the year does not kill plants, but continual improper pruning results in damaged or weakened plants. In general, the best time to prune most plants is during late winter or early spring before growth begins.

The least desirable time is immediately after new growth develops in the spring. A great amount of food stored in roots and stems is used in developing new growth. This food should be replaced by new foliage before it is removed; if not, considerable dwarfing of the plant may occur. This is a common problem encountered in pruning.

It also is advisable to limit the amount of pruning done late in summer as new growth may be encouraged on some plants. This growth may not have sufficient time to harden off before cold weather arrives resulting in cold damage or winter kill. It’s best to have us prune plants that have been damaged by storms or vandalism or ones with dead limbs as soon as possible to avoid additional insect and disease problems that may develop.

All too often trees are topped (“dehorned”) to reduce size or to rejuvenate growth. In either case topping is not a recommended practice. Topping is the process whereby a tree is cut back to a few large branches. After 2 to 3 months, regrowth on a topped tree is vigorous, bushy and upright. Topping seriously affects the tree’s structure and appearance. The weakly attached regrowth can break off during severe wind or rain storms. Topping may also shorten the life of a tree by making it susceptible to attack by insect and disease.

Thinning is a better means of reducing the size of a tree or rejuvenating growth. In contrast to topping, thinning removes unwanted branches by cutting them back to their point of origin. Thinning conforms to the tree’s natural branching habit and results in a more open tree, emphasizing the branches’ internal structure. Thinning also strengthens the tree by forcing diameter growth of the remaining branches.

If you have any questions about having your trees, plants or bushes trimmed by the experts at Gabris Landscaping, give us a call to schedule an appointment to have us come by and offer our recommendations and provide you with a written estimate for our services.

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Treating Brown Spots in Your Yard - Lawn Applications Springfield MO

Treating Brown Spots in Your Yard – Lawn Applications Springfield MO

Treating Brown Spots in Your Yard

You have brown patches of dead grass in your lawn. Is it the common lawn disease known as “brown patch” or is it something else? The answer is important: if it is brown patch you probably need to spray with a fungicide. If it is not, you’ll waste your money on lawn applications that won’t really solve the problem.

DISEASE vs ENVIRONMENT – While brown patch does cause patches of dead grass, other things can cause the same symptoms. If the area is poorly drained and water stands on a spot for more than 24 hours, the grass roots will rot, causing a dead patch. If you have a sodded lawn less than one year old, it is possible the soil underneath the sod was never plowed to relieve compaction. Where the sod has rooted poorly, brown patches will develop as dry weather sets in. If one part of the lawn was once used as a baseball home plate or a soccer goalie area, the earth beneath is almost as hard as concrete. It’s easy to see why green grass would turn brown there.

BROWN PATCH SYMPTOMS – If you eliminate environmental causes of the brown patch, what are the true symptoms of the disease? True brown patch spots are small to begin with but in warm weather they can enlarge rapidly. Seen from above, the patch will look like a doughnut – a ring of tan grass having a patch of green grass in the center. Individual grass blades will be brown down to the crown – where the blade emerges from the ground – but the crown will be green. Early in the morning during hot, damp weather you might see a white fungal web at the edge of the dead grass patch.

KEEP GRASS HEALTHY – Remember that the fungus that causes brown patch is constantly present. It can not be eliminated. Your grass gets sick because it is weak and becomes susceptible to the disease. You can help keep the grass strong by fertilizing only when the grass needs it: during the cool months for fescue and during the warm months for Bermuda Grass.

WATERING – Never water in the evening. The best time to water is in early morning. Fescue is much more susceptible when it has lush, green growth plus warm nighttime temperatures. Warmth at night can not be avoided but lush growth can be moderated. The second step is to water at the right time. Since brown patch needs 14-16 hours of wet leaf surface to reproduce itself, water only after the dew has dried in the morning. An alternative is to water after nightfall. Since the grass is wet with dew anyway, watering in the dark does not unnecessarily extend the wet period.

FERTILIZER – Fertilizer applied in late spring and summer causes rapid growth (which must be mowed!) and drought stress. It is best to fertilize fescue only in fall, winter and spring. Nitrogen fertilizer in June, July and August increases the severity of brown patch fungus on all cultivars except Kentucky 31 fescue. The disease is worse at mowing heights less than two inches and more than three inches. Fungicides to control brown patch are available but they must be applied regularly. To avoid the expense, change the cultural conditions before reaching for the fungicide.

FUNGICIDES – If you are absolutely sure you have brown patch, the disease can be controlled with fungicides with our lawn applications. Several are labeled for brown patch control.

If you have brown spots in your lawn and aren’t sure what’s causing them, contact Gabris Landscaping to get a professional diagnosis and proper treatment to take care of the problem.

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Spider Mite Treatment - Yard Pest Control Springfield MO

Spider Mite Treatment – Yard Pest Control Springfield MO

Identifying Spider Mites on Houseplants and Outdoor Plants

As a leader in local landscape and lawn care, part of our yard pest control task involves removing spider mites from plants. Initially, spider mite damage will appear as small yellow or brown spots on the leaves of the plant. If the plant is badly infested, the plant’s health will suffer and it may develop completely yellow leaves and may stop growing.

Spider mite damage may also include a telltale spider web type webbing on the plant. Spider mites are arachnids and are related to spiders. They produce webs in order to protect themselves and their eggs. It is very difficult to see spider mites on houseplants and outdoor plants with the naked eye because they are so small, but if you suspect that your plant has spider mites, you can hold a piece of paper under the leaves of the plant and shake them gently. If it is spider mites, specks will fall on the paper that looks similar to pepper.

Effective Yard Pest Control to Kill Spider Mites

One natural spider mite remedy is to simply spray down the plant with a nozzled hose. The force of the stream of water is enough to knock most of the spider mites off of the plant.

Another natural spider mite remedy is to release natural predators of spider mites around the plants. These can include Ladybugs, Lacewing, Minute pirate bugs, and Predatory mites. If the infestation is too extensive or you do not have the time or products to treat your yard pest control, call us right away.

Also, an effective spider mite treatment that we provide is to use an insecticidal oil, like neem oil, a horticultural oil or a dormant oil. You can also try using a miticide, a substance made specifically to kill mites. Yard pest control can be a tedious task, but it is important that the proper precautions are being made. You should not try to use a normal pesticide for spider mite treatment as they are resistant to pesticides. Using a pesticide will only kill off the beneficial bugs that eat spider mites, which will only make the spider mite infestation worse. Spider mites on houseplants and garden plants is annoying and unsightly, but you do not have to let spider mite damage kill your plants. Knowing what spider mite treatment works means that you can kill spider mites quickly and easily.

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Lawn Mowing Techniques - Lawn Aeration Springfield MO

Lawn Mowing Techniques – Lawn Aeration Springfield MO

While there can be a numerous amount of things that can affect your lawn, the three most common influences are the weather, the soil and lawn care and mowing techniques. Since the weather and soil can be quite difficult to control, proper lawn care and mowing techniques are a manageable variable that can show a big difference.

Proper lawn aeration, care and mowing techniques are vital to having a healthy lawn and landscape and usually cost a minimal amount. Coming up with lawn care and mowing techniques can never happen too early or soon. Some tips for healthy lawn care and mowing techniques are:

High Mowing

The higher the grass, the healthier your lawn will be. With the height of the grass and the depth of the roots, there is a one to one relationship, which means if you mow at two inches, your roots will have a depth of two inches. The one-third rule states that you should never remove more than one third of the high of the grass in one clipping, because it leaves the grass more prone to diseases. High mowing will add root mass and will make your lawn more disease and drought-resistant.

Variation of Mowing Pattern

Mowing pattern variation makes sure that the wheels of the mower are not running over the same areas every time. This can cause bald spots in the grass and can eventually weaken it.

Sharp Mower Blade

A good thing to remember is to keep the blade on your mower sharp. Cutting with a dull blade will leave the grass jagged, which will brown the grass quickly and will leave the grass prone to disease.

 Mulch Clippings

When people bag clippings, they are losing a lot of nitrogen they are applying when fertilizing. Leaving the clippings on your yard will help maintain soil activity. One environmental positive of not bagging mowing clippings is the landfills are not being filled with good healthy nitrogen.

Water Dry Grass

Especially during the summer months, grass needs at least one inch of water per week. Watering deeply in the morning to reduce the possibility of disease once a week is a good technique.

The frequency of watering isn’t the most important issue anymore, the amount of moisture and the timing is what matters the most.

Aerate

Aeration reduces compaction, which makes root development easier. This also pulls microorganisms to the surface, which helps break down thatch and other organisms.

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How to Pick a Healthy Plant

How to Pick a Healthy Plant – Yard Pest Control Springfield MO

Before going out and finding the perfect plant for you, it is good to know that, since plants can be expensive and temperamental, some plants might not work for your landscape or they might not be in season yet. Even the fully developed plants can develop problems quickly, such a yard pest control problems, diseases and damages done, but knowing how to tell if a plant is healthy may solve future problems.

Selecting A Healthy Plant

The first step before selecting a plant for your landscape, is understanding the signs of a healthy and unhealthy plant. Looking at all of the plants parts will tell you if there are any problems, and you should start with looking at the leaves. Next you should look at the growth of foliage, then disease and pests issues and finally with the roots. Here at Gabris Landscaping we can help you with any of your landscaping needs, anywhere from starting from scratch with a new house, to a yard pest control problem, to planting a new tree or shrub.

Growth of Foliage

Healthy plant growth will indicate a healthy plant. Most plants, with some exceptions including plants with multi-colored leaves, should have green leaves with even color. It is recommend not buying a plant with pale leaves. Also, it is a recommendation to avoid dry leave edges and yellowing or brown leaves on plants. Full, bright colored growth is a sign of a healthy plant. Instead of long plants, it is recommended to choose sturdy plants. If a plant looks to be pruned, this could indicate a damaged stem has been removed because it was diseased or damaged in process of growth or movement.

Disease and Pests

After looking at the leaves and growth of a plant, it is recommended to look at symptoms of diseases and possibly pests. When looking for diseases and pests, you should check underneath the leaves and where the stem attaches to leaves. At Gabris Landscaping we can help you with any problems you may encounter with your landscape with our yard pest control service. This is the location some pests stay, such as: Spider mites, Aphids, and Scale Mealybugs.

Roots

Other signs of a healthy plant are good sturdy roots. However, because roots are difficult to see when a plant is in a pot, most of the time you can tell if the plant is rootbound. you notice roots growing through the hole of the pot, the plant has been in that pot too long. When the roots are growing on top of the potting soil mix, it is a sign of a rootbound problem.

Rootbound plants are not necessarily an unhealthy plant, because it shows that the plant is growing, but it is recommended to repot a rootbound plant as soon as you can.

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KY3 Feature – What to Ask Before You Hire a Lawn or Landscaping Service Springfield MO

Here’s the feature KY3 did that features Gabris Landscaping. Learn what questions to ask before you hire a lawn and landscape service so you don’t get duped.

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Additional Tree Disease Resources (2015) - Tree Service Company Springfield MO

Additional Tree Disease Resources (2015) – Tree Service Company Springfield MO

(Information was obtained through a workshop put on by Simeon Wright, Forest Pathologist at the Missouri Department of Conservation in January 2015.)

For Plant Problem Diagnosis through the University of Missouri Plant Diagnostic Clinic check out: http://plantclinic.missouri.edu/

Want to get updates and alerts about forest health issues in Missouri? http://mdc.mo.gov/user_mailman_register

Looking for current forest health news items? http://mdc.mo.gov/node/12746

Just love trees? Want to spread the word? Check out Trees Work: www.TreesWork.org

Specific Disease Information

Oak Decline –> http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Forestry/extension/pub/pdf/for99.pdf

Oak Decline –> http://mdc.mo.gov/sites/default/files/resources/2013/10/urbantreedecline_2013.pdf

Oak Wilt –> http://mdc.mo.gov/sites/default/files/resources/2013/04/fhalert_oak_wilt_2013.pdf

Fire Blight –> http://extension.missouri.edu/p/g6020

Bleeding Cankers –> http://www.hfrr.ksu.edu/doc1587.ashx

Ash Leaf Spot –> http://bygl.osu.edu/content/ash-leaf-spot-2

Boxwood Blight –> www.boxwoodblight.org

*Thousand Cankers Disease –> www.thousandcankers.com

*Thousand Cankers Disease –> http://extension.missouri.edu/treepests/thousandcankers.aspx

*Please be aware that “Black Walnut is ecologically and economically important to Missouri, and thousand cankers disease (TCD) is a serious threat to this resource. After reviewing symptoms of TCD, if you discover groups of walnut trees with suspicious symptoms that are not due to site disturbance or other issues, contact your Missouri Department of Conservation forester or email: forest.health@mdc.mo.gov …Photos can be very helpful in diagnosis.”

Missouri Exterior Quarantine Law: http://mda.mo.gov/plants/pests/exteriorquarantinelaw.pdf

If after viewing our extensive tree disease resources you have questions, since we specialize in being a tree service company, we can answer them.

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Cicadas are Back in 2015 - Yard Pest Control Springfield MO

Cicadas are Back in 2015 – Yard Pest Control Springfield MO

Well folks, I’ll keep it short and sweet… the cicadas (sometimes also known as “locusts”) are back in 2015.  We actually have 2 populations emerging this year near Springfield, Missouri.  Typically they emerge in early May.  There is a 17-year cycle that will emerge on the west side of the state near Kansas City, as well as a 13 year population that will emerge on the east side of the state closer to Arkansas.  It is rare that we have two cycles emerging at the same time so expect to see quite a few flying around this year.

What does this mean for your plants and trees?  Well, basically the main thing you will notice is insect shells all over the place, but you may also find ovi-positing slits in branches from egg-laying and possible some branch flagging.  In most cases, this should not be a major concern for the trees or plants but we specialize in yard pest control even though there’s not a lot to do with cicadas.  In extreme cases, there is potential for some damage and extra stress to affected plants, but the damage from cicadas is usually not a big deal.  The phenomenon itself is just interesting to be aware of.

Some things we can expect after cicada emergence is an increase in mammal populations the following 1-2 years.  You can also expect an increase in ticks and other mammal feeding insects 2-3 years following emergence.

For more on the periodical cicadas visit: www.magicicada.org and www.indiana.edu/~preserve/cicada/CicadasPres/slide14.html

I would like to give thanks to Rob Lawrence, Forest Entomologist at the Missouri Department of Conservation, for the information above.  All of this information was presented by Rob during the 2015 Tree Insect and Disease Update in Springfield, Missouri.

 

Jeffrey R. Gabris, MBA

ISA Certified Arborist – MW5363A

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