Leaf Removal

Oak Wilt Disease - Gabris Landscaping Springfield MO

Oak Wilt

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Oak Wilt

Tree species affected: Oaks, especially the red oak group

Concerns:Leaf discoloration and wilt, tree defoliation and death

Description: Oak Wilt is a lethal disease of oaks, especially species in the red oak group. The fungus responsible, Ceratocystis fagacearum, invades the tree, causing it to die. In Missouri, the oak wilt fungus is spread primarily when sap-feeding beetles carry oak wilt spores to fresh wounds during the early part of the growing season. Once established in a tree, oak wilt can move though root grafts connecting nearby oaks.

Symptoms and Signs: The first symptom of oak wilt in red oaks is usually browning and wilting of leaves in the upper crown in early summer (Fig. 1). White oaks often exhibit scattered branches with wilting leaves in the crown (Fig. 2). Wilted leaves display olive drab or light tan to bronze tissue starting at the margins and progressing toward the leaf base (Fig. 3). Brown or black streaking may be seen under the bark of wilted branches in both groups (Fig. 4). Rapid defoliation of red oaks can occur within two to six weeks of initial infection, and death occurs within a year. White oaks may take years to die from the infection. Under ideal conditions, oak wilt fungal mats form under the bark of dead red oaks the spring following tree death (Fig. 5), causing cracks in the bark and emitting a sweet, fermenting odor, attracting sap-feeding insects that spread the fungus. Squirrels may chew through the bark to expose these areas.

Jerral Johnson, Texas Agricultural Extension Service, 1995Fire wood Soil Line Plastic 6April 2013 Recommendation: Once a red oak tree displays extensive crown wilt symptoms, the tree will die. White oaks may survive the disease for several years with careful pruning of infected branches and good tree care. Accurate diagnosis of oak wilt is essential for appropriate treatments as other disorders can look similar. Contact your local MDC forester or see www.npdn.orgfor information on labs that can confirm oak wilt.

Two treatments can be considered to protect healthy, high-value red oak trees near infected trees: a professional arborist can inject fungicide before the trees show symptoms, or grafted roots can be killed through mechanical trenching or chemical applications. Root grafting is less common in Missouri than in some states, and is only likely to occur when oaks of the same species grow in close proximity. Fungicide application is costly, may need to be repeated every 1-3 years, and where root grafting occurs, is most effective when combined with graft disruption.

Counties confirmed with oak wilt in the last decade. The disease could be present in other areas.

Remove diseased trees after they have completely died but before the following spring when fungal mat development is possible. Removal of symptomatic trees prior to death can hasten movement of the fungus to adjacent oaks if root grafts are not first disrupted. Unseasoned firewood from infected trees can spread the disease; however, it is safe to burn, and burning destroys the fungus. Cover potentially infected firewood with 4-mil clear plastic and bury the edges with soil until the end of the following summer (Fig. 6). Landowners with oak wilt in woodlots or forests should consult their local MDC forester for appropriate treatment options.

Prevention: Avoid pruning or damaging oaks from mid-March through June. Oaks become more susceptible to the disease a couple weeks before bud break occurs in the spring. Immediately use commercial tree wound dressings, available from garden centers, on fresh wounds or storm damaged areas during the spring infection period (Fig. 7). Firewood movement should only occur locally to prevent movement of oak wilt and other invasive forest pests to new areas.

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Chlorosis on Trees

Chlorosis on Trees

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Chlorosis on Trees

DESCRIPTION

Iron or manganese chlorosis (interveinal  chlorosis) describes a condition in which a tree’s foliage loses its healthy green color and fades to a pale green or yellow hue. This condition if allowed to progress will cause slow growth, leaf loss and eventually tree death. Chlorosis is often caused by deficiencies of the micro-elements iron and manganese, and is particularly prevalent in oak. In alkaline soils, iron and manganese become insoluble and unavailable to the tree. Trees growing in poorly drained soils are also susceptible to iron chlorosis

SYMPTOMS

The primary symptom is the fading of the leaf color from green to increasingly paler shades of green and, when extreme, to an almost yellow tone.

TRE ATMENT

Arborjet recommends a two-pronged approach to treating foliar chlorosis.

1)Trunk InjectionBy injecting minerals which are deficient in the tree directly into the xylem tissue, these minerals available to the tree immediately; thus, it is the fastest way to alleviate symptoms of chlorosis and improve the health of the tree. In oaks and birches, use the QUIK-jet to apply MIN-jet Iron which is specially formulated for iron deficiency. By rapidly providing the minerals the tree needs, it is able to respond rapidly and generally will have darker, healthier leaves within days or weeks of application.

2) Soil ApplicationArborjet recommends a supplemental follow up application of ROOT-jet Iron, which can be applied as a soil drench, soil injection or foliar spray. ROOT-jet Iron is formulated to help acidify the soil and provide additional nutrients to aid recovery and long term health of the tree. The addition of high quality organic matter to improve soil CEC and to buffer pH is likewise recommended.

 

IRON CHLOROSIS WHEN TO TREAT

Generally, the best seasons for injection are fall and spring, as uptake occurs when trees are transpiring. The environmental conditions that favor uptake are adequate soil moisture and relatively high humidity. Soil temperature should be above 40°F for trunk injection. Hot weather or dry soil conditions will result in a reduced rate of uptake, so trees should be watered if applications are made when soil is extremely dry. If treating trees in the summer, inject in the morning for the quickest uptake. Tree health will affect treatment efficacy, so assess tree health prior to treating. For example, a declining tree (>50% canopy dieback) is a poor candidate for treatment.

For foliar chlorosis, the best time to treat is in the fall, following leaf coloration for foliage responses in the following growing season. When treating in the early spring or summer, use the lowest (micro-injection) label rates. Make applications prior to bud break in spring or, alternatively following leaf maturation (June 15). Always use the lowest label rates when treating birch trees.

WHAT TO EXPECT AFTER TREATMENT

Recovery will be proportional to the level of the severity of chlorosis at the time of treatment. Response to treatment can be very rapid; you can expect to see noticeable greening and improved vitality within the growing season and often within weeks of application. Tree responses vary with soil conditions. Calcitic soils with little organic matter require comprehensive approach to treatment, including soil amendments. At Arborjet, we stress the importance of being proactive. This means that it is imperative that you treat the disease, not only the symptoms. This is why we recommend the addition of ROOT-jet Iron to the soil in order to prevent the recurrence of iron chlorosis symptoms. With the proper assessment and amendment of soil conditions, the tree may not need to be injected again for several years.

 

 

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Benefits of Mulching During Leaf Removal Springfield MO

Benefits of Mulching During Leaf Removal Springfield MO

Once Fall arrives and the leaves begin to cover your yard, we get lots of phone calls for leaf removal. People often ask us: Should you remove the leaves? What can you do besides removal? And, what do those leaves do to the soil if they are not removed?

If you want quality turf in the spring and your home has a lot of leaves in your yard, then you need to do something about those leaves. Turf needs sunlight to thrive. Turfgrass leaves must be exposed to sunlight to assist in the process of photosynthesis. One thing to consider is removing all the leaves entirely.

We can’t perform our other lawn and landscape winterization services (dethatching, fertilizing, aerating, bed mulching, etc.) if you have a serious layer of leaves in your yard.

Another course of action is chopping up or “mulching” those leaves. If you have a fairly deep or thick layer of fallen leaves, having them all chopped up does not necessarily alleviate the sunlight exposure issue. But providing organic material to your lawn, ornamental beds and soil is a good thing. Having a good amount of organic material in your soil increases aeration and soil tilth. Mulching leaves certainly assists in accomplishing that mission.

There are other considerations too. Certain leaves, from certain cultivars of trees, can alter the pH of your soil. Oak trees make the soil acidic just by being there – and the leaves make the soil even more acidic and below what is desired for most turfgrass soil. Pine needles, for example, can also increase the acidity of soil.

That’s why we do a combination of leaf removal with mulching during our leaf removal services by putting mulching blades on our mowers. Mulching mowers chop up leaves (turfgrass clippings, just about everything) more finely. It basically holds things inside the mower deck longer and chops the stuff up more. It saves you additional fertilizer applications, improves soil tilth and reduces thatch. It allows your grass clippings to decompose faster.

When you want those leaves removed but still want to consider that is best for your lawn, consider a combination of leaf mulching and leaf removal.

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