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06 Mar

The Science of Planting Trees

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The Science of Planting Trees

The Science of Planting Trees

Tree root systems are shallow and wide-spreading. Based on nursery standards, a field-grown balled and burlapped (B&B) tree or container-grown tree has less than 5-20% of the fine absorbing roots of the same size tree in a landscape setting. This creates stress when the tree moves from the daily care in the nursery setting to the landscape. The goal of the science of planting trees is promoting rapid root growth to reduce the water stress imposed by the limited root system. Post-planting stress (transplant shock) describes the stress factors induced by the limited root system

Steps to Planting Container-Grown or Field-Grown B&B Nursery Stock

Note: Call before you dig. Whether you plan on planting the tree yourself or hiring the work done, the site needs to have underground utilities marked before digging to plant a tree. In Colorado, this is easy to do by calling the Utility Notification Center of Colorado at 1-800-922-1987 or 8-1-1.) It can also be done online at colorado811.org. The utilities will be marketed within 72 business hours, so plan ahead.

Step 1. Determine Depth of the Planting Hole

Planting trees too deep has become an epidemic leading to the decline and death of landscape trees. Trunk-girdling roots, caused by planting too deep, leads to more deaths of landscape trees than all other factors combined!

Trunk-girdling roots develop when a tree is planted too deep in the root ball and/or the root ball is planted too deep in the planting hole. Trunk-girdling roots may lead to decline and death some 12 to 20 years after planting. Trunk-girdling roots may be below ground.

To deal with this epidemic an industry-wide working group developed the following standards1 for tree planting depth:

These standards have been adopted industry-wide, including endorsement by the American Nursery and Landscape Association (ANLA), American Society of Consulting Arborists (ASCA), American Society of Landscape Architects (ASLA), Associated Landscape Contractors of America (ALCA), International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), and Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA).

Depth of Root Ball in Planting Hole

In tree planting, the root ball sits on undug soil. This prevents the tree from sinking and tilting as the soil settles. If the hole is dug too deep, backfill and firm the soil on the bottom to the correct depth. (Roots grow out from the root ball, not down.)

To deal with the soil texture interface (actually the differences in soil pore space) between the root-ball soil and backfill soil, it is imperative that the root ball rises slightly above grade with no backfill soil over top of the root ball. For small (one-inch caliper) trees, the top of the root ball rises one inch above grade. For larger (two to four inch caliper) trees, the top of the root ball rises about two inches above grade. Backfill soil should cover the “knees” tapering down to grade.

If backfill covers the root ball, water and air will be slow to cross the texture interface. In this situation, water tends to move around the root ball and is slow to soak into the root ball. Root health will be compromised by lower soil oxygen levels.

Depth of root ball in planting hole – Top of root ball rises 1-2 inches above soil grade. No soil is placed over top of the root ball. Backfill soil covers the “knees” tapering downward to the original soil grade. Rootball sits on un-dug/firmed soil to prevent sinking.

It is imperative that the root ball comes to the surface, with no backfill on top of the root ball. When backfill soil is placed over top of the root ball, the soil texture interface impedes water and air movement into the root ball.

Depth of Tree in the Root Ball

Generally, at least two structural roots should be within the top one to three inches of the root ball, measured three to four inches from the trunk.
On species prone to trunk-circling roots (crabapples, green ash, hackberry, little leaf linden, poplar, red maple, and other species with aggressive root systems), the top structural root should be within the top one inch of the root ball.

Checking Depth of Tree in Root Ball

Check the depth of the tree in the root ball. Do not assume that it was planted correctly at the nursery.

The presence of the root flare is an indication of good planting depth. However, small trees may have minimal root flare development, making it difficult to determine. Be careful not to mistake swelling of the trunk below the graft as the root flare.
A good way to evaluate planting depth in the root ball is with a slender implement like a slender screwdriver, knitting needle, or barbeque skewer. Systematically probe the rootball three to four inches out from the trunk to locate structural roots and determine their depth.

Systematically probe the root ball with a slender screwdriver. Generally, at least two structural roots should be found in the top 1-3 inches of soil, 3-4 inches out from the trunk. On species prone to trunk circling roots (crabapples, green ash, hackberry, little leaf linden, poplar, red maple, and other species with aggressive root systems), the top structural root should be within the top one inch of the root ball.

If the tree is planted too deep in the root ball, excess soil should be removed from the top in the backfill step of the planting process. Adjust the depth of the planting hole to compensate.

With trees planted too deep in the root ball, a better option is to not purchase the trees. In the root ball, the soil above the root flare generally does not contain roots so the total volume of roots may be too small to maintain tree health. In container-grown stock, trees planted too deep readily develop trunk-circling roots.

Another issue with soil levels above the root flare is rootball size. With roots only in a portion of the root ball area, the root ball may be too small for the tree to thrive following planting.

Summary: Depth of Planting Hole

Depth of the planting hole should be 1-2 inches less than the height of the root ball, adjusted (as needed) to correct the depth of the tree in the root ball.

For example, if a two-inch caliper tree has a root ball height of 16 inches, depth of the planting hole would be 14 inches. However, if the top structural roots are located five inches down in the root ball, between two to four inches of soil needs to be removed from the root ball in the backfill process. Depth of the planting hole would be adjusted to 10-12 inches

In digging, measure the depth of the planting hole with a straight board (like rake handle) and a measuring tape.

Checking depth of root ball in planting hole with a straight board (like a rake handle).

Step 2. Dig Saucer-Shaped Planting Hole Three-Times Root Ball Diameter

Saucer-Shaped Planting Hole

To support rapid root regeneration, research suggests a wide, saucer-shaped planting hole. If the roots have difficulty penetrating compacted site soil (due to low soil oxygen levels), sloped sides direct roots upward and outward toward the higher oxygen soil near the surface rather than being trapped in the planting hole. Roots that do not penetrate the site soil may begin circling in the hole, leading to trunk-girdling roots.

When roots cannot penetrate the site soil (due to low oxygen levels), the saucer-shaped planting hole directs the roots upward and outward into soils with higher oxygen levels.

Water logging concerns – The saucer-shaped planting hole actually gives the tree a larger margin for error in over watering. In the saucer-shaped planting hole, three times the root ball diameter, the upper half contains 85% of the back fill soil, and the upper quarter contains 75% of the back fill soil. Water could saturate the lower 3/4 of the back fill soil and only affect 25% of the root system!

When the planting hole is dug with an auger, cut down the sides with a shovel to help eliminate the glazing and create the preferred sloping sides. An alternative is to rototill a 12-24″ inch ring of soil around the planting hole after planting.

When dug with an auger, cut down the sides into the saucer shape during backfill process.

Planting Hole Depth

Depth of the planting hole is determined in Step 1. To measure depth of the dug hole, place a straight board or shovel handle across the hole and measure from the board/handle height to the bottom of the hole.

For stability, it is imperative that the root ball sits on undug soil. If the hole is dug too deep, backfill and firmly pack the soil to the correct depth. Remember that the planting hole is shallow and wide. As a point of clarification, primary growth of roots is outward, not downward.

Planting Hole Width

Planting hole width is the key to promoting rapid root growth, reducing post-planting stress. In soils with great tilth (conditions supportive to ideal root growth), width is probably not a minor concern. However, in a compacted clayey soil, typical of much of Colorado, root growth slows when roots reach the undisturbed site soil beyond the backfill area. This is due to lower soil oxygen levels in the undisturbed soil.

Twenty-five percent wider – A planting hole with vertical sides that is only twenty-five percent wider than the root ball hinders root growth. If the soil is compacted and difficult to penetrate, the roots circle inside the hole just as if the root system were in a container. Size of the root system (before growth is slowed by the lower oxygen levels of the site soil) is insufficient to reduce post-planting stress. Narrow planting holes are sometimes used as a labor saving technique. However, on less than idea soils, it will slow root establishment and may predispose the roots to circling.

Two times root ball – A saucer-shaped planting hole twice the diameter of the root ball will allow the root system to grow rapidly to 150% of the root ball size before growth is slowed by the lower oxygen levels of the site soil. This is not enough to avoid post-planting stress under normal conditions. A planting hole two times root ball diameter is common in commercial plantings as a labor savings technique. However, on less than idea soils, it may slow root establishment.

Three times root ball – A saucer-shaped planting hole three times the diameter of the root ball allows the root system to grow rapidly to 400% of the root ball size before being slowed by the lower oxygen levels of the site soil. This is enough to reduce post-planting stress under normal conditions. For example, a two-inch diameter tree with a 24 inch (two foot) wide root ball needs a 72 inch (six foot) wide saucer-shaped planting hole. To promote root growth, the planting hole is wide, shallow, and saucer-shaped!

The shallow but wide planting hole is the primary technique for encouraging rapid root growth, which is the objective in the science of planting trees. This is an important change in the mindset of many folks who have been planting into a narrow, deep hole.

Summary: Planting Hole Specification

Generally, at least two structural roots should be found in the top 1-3 inches of soil, 3-4 inches out from the trunk. On species prone to trunk circling roots (such as crab apples, green ash, hack berry, little leaf linden, poplar, and red maple), the top structural root should be within the top one inch of the root ball.

Modification for Wet Soils

On wet soils, raise planting depth so that one-third of the root ball is above grade. Cover root ball “knees” with soil, gradually tapering down to grade. Do not use mulch to cover knees, as roots will readily grow in moist mulch but will be killed when the mulch dries out.

Modification for Compacted Soils

On extremely compacted soils, rototilling a ring around the back fill area to a width of four, five, or more times the root ball diameter may be helpful. This should be done after planting is completed so the soil is not compacted by foot traffic during the planting process.

Planting on a Slope

When planting on a slope, plant “out-of-the-hill” by adjusting the grade around the planting hole as illustrated in .

Labor-Saving Techniques

A labor-saving technique is to dig the hole twice the root ball width with more- vertical sides. Place the tree in the hole, firm a ring of soil around the base of the root ball to stabilize it, remove wrappings, and check for circling roots. Then with a shovel cut the sides of the planting hole to form the saucer-shaped planting hole three times the root ball diameter. With this technique, part of the backfill soil does not have to be removed and shoveled back, but simply allowed to fall into the hole. Soil “peds” (dirt clods) up to the size of a small fist are acceptable. With this technique, it is not practical to mix in soil amendments, as amendments must be thoroughly mixed throughout the back fill soil.

A small tiller or “garden weeder” makes for quick digging. Simply place the tiller where the hole will be and walk around in a circle. Stop periodically to remove the loosened soil from the hole, and continue walking and tilling in a circle.

Step 3. Set Tree in Place, Removing Container/Wrappings

In setting the tree in the planting hole, if the tree has a “dogleg” (a slight curve in the trunk just above the graft) the inside curve must face north to reduce w inter bark injury.

Vertically align the tree with the top centered above the root ball. Due to curves along the trunk, the trunk may not necessarily look straight. It will appear straighter with growth.

In this step, techniques vary for container-grown trees and B&B trees.

Container-Grown Nursery Stock

“Container-grown” nursery stock refers to trees and shrubs grown in containers using a variety of production methods. Spread of the root system is limited to the container size. An advantage of container stock is that it can be planted in spring, summer, or fall. Smaller trees and shrubs are commonly grown in containers.

There are many variations of container production. In many systems, like “pot-in-pot” and “grow-bags,” the container is in the ground. This protects roots from extreme heat and cold and prevents trees from blowing over.

In container-grown nursery stock, circling roots develop over time. These may be on the outside of the root ball (particularly at the bottom of the container) or just inside the root ball and not visible from the surface. Current research finds that the old standard of slitting the root ball on four sides does not adequately deal with circling roots. New standards call for the outer 1-1½ inch of the root ball to be shaved off with a knife, saw, or pruners in the planting process. This encourages roots to grow outward and does not affect tree growth potential.

Techniques with Container-Grown Stock

Actual planting techniques in this step vary with the type of container and extent of root development. Generic steps include:

a) Lay the tree on its side in or near the planting hole.

b) Wiggle off or cut off the container.

c) Shave off the outer 1-1 ½ inch of the root ball with a knife, saw, or pruners. This step is important to deal with circling roots.

d) Tilt the tree into place. Remember that the inside curve of any dogleg faces north.

e) Check depth of the root ball in the planting hole. If incorrect, remove the tree and correct the depth, firming any soil added back to the hole.

f) Align vertically.

g) Firm a shallow ring of soil around the bottomof the root ball to stabilize it.

The ideal container-grown tree has a nice network of roots holding the root ball together. After the container is removed, the tree is gently tilted into place.
If some of the soil falls off (often on the bottom), it may be necessary to adjust the depth of the planting hole. Backfill and pack the bottom of the planting hole to the correct depth.
If most of the soil falls off the roots, the tree is planted as a bare-root tree (see below).
Fabric grow bags must be removed from the sides. They are generally cut away after setting the tree in place.
Generally, paper/pulp type containers should be removed. Most are slow to decompose and will complicate soil texture interface issues. Pulp containers often need to be cut off, as they may not slide off readily.
In handling large trees (3-inch caliper and greater) it may be necessary to set the tree in place before removing the container.
If the container is easy to cut, it may help to keep the root ball intact by first cutting off the bottom of the container, carefully setting the tree in place and tilting to align vertically, then cutting a slit down the side to remove the container.

If the container is easy to cut, many planters prefer to first cut off the bottom, then move the tree in place (helps hold root ball together) and then slit the container side to remove it.

Field-Grown, Balled and Burlapped Nursery Stock

Field-grown, balled and burlapped (B&B) trees and shrubs are dug from the growing field with the root ball soil intact. In the harvest process, only 5-20% of the feeder roots are retained in the root ball. B&B nursery stock is best transplanted in the cooler spring or fall season.

To prevent the root ball from breaking, the roots are balled and wrapped with burlap (or other fabrics) and twine (hence the name B&B). In nurseries today, there are many variations to B&B techniques. Some are also wrapped in plastic shrink-wrap, placed in a wire basket, or placed in a pot.

Larger plant materials are often sold as B&B stock. In field production, the roots may be routinely cut to encourage a more compact root ball. While this process improves the transplantability of the tree, it adds to production costs.

Depending on how long the tree has been held in the B&B condition, circling roots may begin to develop. If this has occurred, shave off the outer 1-1½ inches of the root ball as described previously for container-grown trees.

Field-grown, B&B nursery stock needs to have the wrappings that hold the root ball together taken off AFTER the tree is set in place.

Techniques with Balled and Burlapped Nursery Stock

An advantage of the wider planting hole is that it gives room for the planter to remove root ball wrappings AFTER the tree is situated in the hole.

Based on research, standard procedures are to remove root ball wrapping materials (burlap, fabric, grow bags, twine, ties, wire basket, etc.) from the upper 12 inches or 2/3 of the root ball, whichever is greater AFTER the tree is set in place. Materials under the root ball are not a concern since roots grow outward, not downward.

Actual planting techniques in this step vary with the type of wrapping on the root ball. Generic steps include:

a) Remove extra root ball wrapping added for convenience in marketing (like shrink-wrap and a container). However, do NOT remove the burlap (or fabric), wire basket and twine that hold the root ball together until the tree is set in place.

b) Set the tree in place. Remember that the inside curve of any graft crook faces north.

c) Check depth of the root ball in the planting hole. If incorrect, remove the tree and correct the depth, firming any soil added back to the hole.

d) Align vertically.

e) For stability, firm a shallow ring of soil around the bottom of the root ball.

f) Remove all the wrapping (burlap, fabric, twine, wire basket, etc.) on the upper 12 inches or upper 2/3 of the root ball, whichever is greater.

g) If circling roots are found in the root ball, shave off the outer 1-1½ inches of the root ball with a pruning saw and/or pruners.

Consensus from research is clear that leaving burlap, twine, and wire baskets on the sides of the root ball are not acceptable planting techniques.

Burlap may be slow to decompose and will complicate soil texture interface issues.
Burlap that comes to the surface wicks moisture from the root ball, leading to dry soils.
Jute twine left around the trunk will be slow to decompose, often girdling the tree.
Nylon twine never decomposes in the soil, often girdling trees several years after planting.
Wire baskets take 30 plus years to decompose and may interfere with long-term root growth.
With tapered wire baskets, some planters find it easier to cut off the bottom of the basket before setting the tree in the hole. The basket can still be used to help move the tree and is then easy to remove by simply cutting the rings on the side.

Optional Step 4. Underground Stabilization

One of the trends in tree planting is to use underground stabilization of the root ball rather than above-ground staking. Underground stabilization is out of the way and will not damage the trunk’s bark. For information on underground stabilization, refer to CMG Garden Notes #634, Tree Staking and Underground Stabilization.

Staking became a routine procedure when trees were planted in deep holes and the trees sank and tilted as the soil settled. In the Science of Planting Trees, where trees are set on undisturbed soil and a ring of soil is firmed around the base before back filling, staking or underground stabilization is not needed in many landscape settings.

Step 5. Backfill

In back filling the planting hole, the best method is to simply return the soil and let water settle it. Avoid compacting the soil by walking or stamping on it. In the back fill process, the planting hole can be widened into the desired sauce shape.

No back fill soil goes on top of the root ball. Back fill soil covers the root ball “knees” tapering down to the original soil grade.

In preparing any garden for planting, it is standard gardening procedure to modify the soil structure (i.e., loosen the soil) by cultivating. It is also routine to amend the soil by adding organic matter to improve the water-holding capacity of sandy soils or to increase large pore space in clayey soils. Modifying and amending, while related, are not the same process.

Ideally, soils in a tree’s entire potential rooting area would be modified and amended to a 5% organic content.

Modifying the Back fill

When planting trees, soil in the planting hole is modified (loosened up) by digging the hole. The issue around “modifying the soil” is planting-hole width, as discussed previously. Due to lower levels of soil oxygen in the site soil, root growth slows as roots reach the undisturbed site soil beyond the back fill. A saucer-shaped planting hole three times the diameter of the root ball supports rapid root growth, reducing post-planting stress. Amending backfill soil in a narrow planting hole will not substitute for modifying soil in the wider saucer-shaped planting hole.

For backfill, soil “peds” (dirt clods) up to the size of a small fist are acceptable. The soil does not need to be pulverized. In clayey soils, pulverizing the soil will destroy all structure and may lead to excessive re-compaction with minimal large pore space.

A labor-saving technique is to dig the planting hole two times root ball diameter with rather vertical walls. Then in the backfill step, cut the hole to the three times root ball, saucer-shaped hole. In this method, part of the soil does not have to be moved twice. Peds (dirt clods) up to fist size are acceptable in the backfill.

A labor-saving method is to dig the planting hole two times the root ball diameter with more-vertical walls and ease the tree in place. Then cut the planting hole into the three-times-root-ball width and saucer shape during the backfill process. This way much of the soil does not have to be moved twice. Dirt clods up to fist size are acceptable in the planting hole.

Amending the Back fill

Amending the soil just in the planting hole is a complex issue. Too many soil-related variables play into this amended planting pit for a simple directive. In tree planting, it is a common procedure to amend backfill soil with organic matter. It is a good marketing technique for the nursery to recommend soil amendments with the sale of a tree.

Amending the backfill soil to five percent organic matter is standard procedure in garden soil management and may be supportive to root growth in the planting hole during the first two years.

However, amending the backfill to twenty-five to fifty percent is a common mistake! It helps containerize the roots and may also hinder root spread beyond the planting hole. It may hold excessive amounts of water, reducing soil oxygen levels. As the organic matter decomposes, the total volume of soil in the planting hole diminishes, allowing the tree to topple over.

If amending the soil, the organic matter needs to be thoroughly mixed with the backfill soil. Never backfill with organic matter in layers or clumps as this creates additional texture interface lines. Amendments should be well aged. Never use unfinished compost or fresh manure as it may burn tender roots.

Texture Interface

Changes in soil texture (actually changes in soil pore space) create a texture interface that impedes water and air movement across the texture change. There will always be a texture interface between the root ball soil and back fill soil and between the back fill soil and undisturbed site soil. Amending the back fill soil will not diminish the interface.

To deal with the interface, it is imperative that the root ball comes to the soil surface with no back fill soil over top of the root ball. If back fill soil covers the root ball soil, the interface between the root ball and back fill soil will impede water and air movement into the root ball.

Changes in soil texture (actually soil pore space) create a texture interface that impedes water and air movement.

There will always be a texture interface between the root ball and backfill soil.

To minimize the texture interface, the root ball must come to the soil surface with no backfill over top of the root ball.

Summary: Modifying and Amending

For rapid root establishment, the focus needs to be on planting hole width and correct depth. In most situations, amending or not amending the back fill has little significance compared to other planting protocols.

Optional Step 6. Staking

In areas with extreme winds, “anchor staking” may be needed for improved wind resilience. In some landscapes, new trees may need “protection staking” to protect trees from human activities (like the football game on the lawn). For additional information on staking, refer to CMG GardenNotes #634, Tree Staking and Underground Stabilization.

Step 7. Watering to Settle Soil

Watering is done after staking so the gardener does not compact the wet soil while installing the stakes. Watering is a tool to settle the soil without overly packing it.

Discussion of how to water recently planted trees is covered in CMG GardenNotes #635, Care of Recently Planted Trees.

Step 8. Final Grade

In the wide, shallow planting hole, the backfill soil may settle in watering. Final grading may be needed after watering.

Final grade. Note how the root ball soil is visible on the surface, with no backfill covering the top of the root ball.

Step 9. Mulching

A mulch ring of bark/wood chips is suggested around all trees to help protect the trunks from lawnmower damage. On newly planted trees, organic mulch can increase fine root development by 400% compared to grass competition. This results in 20% faster canopy growth. The increase in growth is due to the lack of competition between the tree and grass and weeds.

Site-specific water needs should be considered regarding the use of mulch. Mulch over the rooting area helps conserve moisture and moderate soil temperatures. However, on wet sites the mulch may hold too much moisture, leading to root/crown rot, and may be undesirable. Wood/bark chips may blow in wind and therefore are not suitable for open, windy areas.

With newly planted trees, do NOT place mulch directly over the root ball. Rather mulch the backfill area and beyond. Never place mulch up against the trunk as this may lead to bark decay. Over the backfill area and beyond, 3-4 inches of wood chip mulch gives better weed control and prevents additional soil compaction from foot traffic.

Do not make mulch volcanoes. Mulch piled up against the tree trunk may lead to bark decay and reduced trunk taper. Excessive mulch can reduce soil oxygen.

Planting Bare-Root Trees

Bare-root nursery stock is sold without an established soil ball and is generally limited to smaller-caliper materials. Some evergreen materials will not transplant well as bare-root stock.

Cost for bare-root stock is significantly lower than the same plant as container-grown or B&B stock. Survivability drops rapidly once the plant leafs out. Some nurseries keep bare-root nursery stock in cold storage to delay leafing.

Roots dehydrate rapidly and must be protected. Bare-root stock is often marketed in individual units with roots bagged in moist sawdust or peat moss to prevent dehydration. Sometimes bare-root stock is temporarily potted to protect roots. Some nurseries maintain bare-root stock in moist piles of sawdust. At the time of sale, plants are pulled from the sawdust and the roots are wrapped with some moist sawdust for transport to the planting site. These need to be planted within 24 hours of purchase.

Techniques for Bare-Root Nursery Stock

Bare-root trees are planted with the same basic standards as container-grown or B&B stock, with the modification that the roots are spread out on a horizontal plane as the backfill soil is added. It is critical to minimize exposure of the roots as feeder roots dehydrate in minutes. Generic steps include the following:

1. 1. Unpack roots to measure root spread. Cover or repack to protect roots while the hole is dug. Some gardeners like to soak the roots in a bucket of water for a couple of hours. However, do not leave them in the water for more than a half day.
  2. Dig a shallow, saucer-shaped planting hole three times the diameter of the root spread. Depth of the planting hole should accommodate the planting depth standards mentioned previously.
    - Top of backfill will be one inch above grade.
    - Generally, at least two structural roots should be within the top one to three inches of the soil surface.
    - On species prone to trunk circling roots (such as crabapples, green ash, hackberry, littleleaf linden, poplar, and red maple), the top structural root should be within the top one inch of the root-ball soil surface.
    - The bottom root should rest on undug soil.
1. As backfill is added, spread roots out on a straight, horizontal plane.
2. Many bare-root trees will need staking.
3. Water the newly planted tree.
4. Final grade.
5. Mulch, as needed

Additional Information

CMG Garden Notes on Tree Selection and Planting

#631 Tree Placement: Right Plant, Right Place

#632 Tree Selection: Right Plant, Right Place

#633 The Science of Planting Trees

#634 Tree Staking and Underground Stabilization

#635 Care of Newly Planted Trees

#636 Tree Planting Steps

o Books: Watson, Gary W., and Himelick, E.B. Principles and Practice of Planting Trees and Shrubs. International Society of Arboriculture. 1997. ISBN: 1-881956-18-0.

o Web: Dr. Ed Gilman’s tree planting information at http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/planting.shtml

Authors: David Whiting (CSU Extension, retired) with Joann Jones (CSU Extension, retired) and Alison O’Connor(CSU Extension). Photographs and line drawing by David Whiting; used by permission

CMG Garden Notes are available online at www.cmg.colostate.edu.
Colorado Master Gardener training is made possible, in part, by a grant from the Colorado Garden Show, Inc.
Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and Colorado counties cooperating.
Extension programs are available to all without discrimination.
Copyright 2007-14. Colorado State University Extension. All Rights Reserved. This CMG GardenNotes may be reproduced, without change or additions, for nonprofit educational use.

By Gabris Landscaping Landscaper Springfield MO, News Landscaping Services Springfield MO, Planting Trees, Water Features Springfield MO 0 Comments

Proper Techniques for Lawn Irrigation - Springfield MO

05 Mar

How to set an Irrigation Controller

Click Here To Download How to set an Irrigation Controller

How to set an Irrigation Controller

1. Date & Time – set up the date and time to match the current date and time
2. Set Seasonal Adjustment to 100% – Turn your dial to Seasonal Adjust and press the up or down arrows as necessary
3. Program (A, B, or C)
  1. Pick one program and clear out the rest if anything is set in them
  2. Only set up multiple if you have special circumstances and don’t want to have to re-set original program “start-times” and “run-times”
4. Set start times for each program
  1. 1. Each program runs all zones for their “run time”
  i. 1 zone may run for 7 minutes
  ii. A program with 10 zones running for 7 minutes will run for 70 minutes total
  1.Therefore, start times must be at least 70 minutes apart or system will malfunction and show some kind of error on the screen
  2.We should never need more than 1 start time on a normal yard
  i.BUT, on new plantings, (bed or bushes) we DO use 2-3 start times so we can water 2-3 times in one day
  ii. Spring and Fall typically need 2 waterings a day and Summer can sometimes require 3 waterings to keep new plants or grass healthy
  iii. Often when we set more than one start time, we would save those settings as a second program (program B)
  1.This allows us to leave the original program exactly as it was so it can be returned to after the establishment period of any new plants
5. Set run times for each zone

1.At 3x per week:
i.18 minutes on rotor zones & mp-rotator zones
ii.7 minutes on spray zones
iii.25-50 minutes on drip zones
iv. Specific adjustments should be made based on plant type, wind flow, and sun/shade of the area each zone waters

Set days to water1.M WF or Tu Th S for a 3-day a week schedule
1. M W F or Tu Th S for a 3-day a week schedule
Set seasonal % adjustment for the season
1. Summer: 100%-120%
2. Spring/Fall: 40%-80%

By Gabris Landscaping Irrigation, Irrigation System Backflow Testing Springfield MO, Landscaper Springfield MO, News, Water Features Springfield MO Irrigation Controller, Irrigation System Backflow Testing Springfield MO, Landscaping Companies Springfield MO, Landscaping Services Springfield MO, Lawn Irrigation Springfield MO, Water Features Springfield MO 0 Comments

04 Mar

Tree Watering Practices

Click Here To Download Tree Watering Practices

Tree Watering Practices

How to Water Your New Trees

There are many exceptions to the following guidelines. Species-specific research is encouraged for customers interested in the proper maintenance of their trees.

Trees prefer a larger volume of water, provided a little less frequently, relative to smaller plants. The key to establishment is to keep the soil around the root system moist. The root system is generally 12 to 18 inches deep on most trees. A slower deeper watering is more effective at reaching 12 to 18 inches deep.

Over watering can push all of the oxygen out of the soil and actually choke a plant to death faster than underwatering will kill the plant of dehydration. Be sure water is draining from your plant so it isn’t sitting in a puddle of water for an extended period of time after watering. Poorly draining soils will require much less water than outlined below. Touching the ground and feeling the soil moisture at the base of your tree is always the best way to determine watering needs.

Avoid letting water splash on the leaves of your tree, if possible. The best time of day to water is between 4-8 a.m. After the initial establishment, trees should be watered once or twice a month for the first 1-2 years, even during the winter, if/when weather permits, and especially during summer.

We don’t recommend relying on a lawn irrigation system to adequately water your trees. While the in-ground sprinklers will reduce water needs, trees will still need supplemental watering from a hose.

Weeks Since Planted Frequency/Durationusing a Hose

1-2 Once daily @ 20-30 seconds/tree

3-6 3x/Week @ 20-30 seconds/tree

7-8 1x/Week @ 30-60 seconds/tree*

Increase frequencies of watering to daily to compensate for additional water loss from temperatures above 85*F. Decrease frequencies of watering to compensate for lack of water loss during temperatures below 45*F.

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29 Sep

Worth The Wait For The Best Landscaping Companies in Springfield MO

The first two questions we usually get asked whenever someone calls us about a landscaping job whether it is Springfield , Nixa Ozark or Branson is “How soon can you get here to give us a quote?” and “How quickly can you get started?” We try to be very transparent up front that it can take a week or two for us to come out for a bid and once we get the go ahead from the property owner, it can take us another 8 to 10 weeks to get your job started. Why does it take us so long? There are a few reasons.

For starters, if someone is sitting around waiting for you to call them and can start on your job right away, that’s generally going to be a red flag. Unless they are a brand new company or a big project recently fell through, there should be a steady pipeline of work lined up for the best landscaping companies in Springfield MO. Because of Gabris Landscaping has a solid track record of providing quality work for our customers, we’ve got a pretty steady backlog of work to complete.

Next, it takes time to do a job the right way. We aren’t the cheapest or the fastest landscapers in town, but we stand behind our work and will only take on quality jobs that we can be proud of. So if you care more about how quickly or cheaply the job can get done, then we’re probably not the landscaping company for you.

But if you realize that your home is your most valuable asset and it’s worth the investment of money and time to get the job done right the first time, then we’re confident that the landscaping experts at Gabris Landscaping will be worth the wait.

Idea Generation

Our experienced landscape designers have loads of ideas from the many years of experiance working in the industry as your local landscaping company. Our ability to be abundant with ideas and to spin one idea into a new and improved idea using our past experience and industry expertise is a unique talent of our design professionals.

Site Analysis

If you are a local to Missouri you will know that every parcel of land is unique. Our professional landscape designers have the skills to understand all the minor details that come together to dictate the broad-brush strokes of design. We have the refined talent to define the unique elements of each area of focus.

Conceptual Design

Once there is a clear analysis of your project site, we will come up with conceptual design ideas to contemplate. Every site has multiple solutions, but when the background research has been done thoroughly, our professional landscape designer will narrow down the options to a concept that answers the needs, wants and wishes of the property owner while addressing the characteristics presented in the existing landscape.

Construction Planning

Landscape design is about more than just ideas. By working with our seasoned professionals, you can be assured that what we develop together will have the ability to not only be built, but also to be sustained.

Budget Creation

Understanding what things cost is very important. Once the direction and aesthetic is defined it is necessary to bring the project into the reality of money. Your professional landscape designer will be able to reasonably provide a budget you can count on. We can also help you determine whether it makes sense to build the project all at once or to phase it in.

If you have a landscape project bubbling up in your imagination, think about contacting the professional landscape designers at Gabris Landscaping to help you develop and refine your ideas into an actionable plan. We’re confident that the end result will be worth the wait.

03 May

Spring Landscape Checklist – Landscaping Services Springfield MO

Does your backyard have plenty of room for improvement? Let us help you come up with the right landscape design to suit your needs. Make plans now to transition your landscape this spring with the help of our professional landscaping services.

Landscape Design Ideas

Sometimes the hardest part about landscaping your yard is finding the right ideas you need to begin the project. Here are a few general landscape design ideas for back yards with different purposes.

A Backyard Made for Entertaining

Make your backyard the setting for summertime parties by including these features:

– Hardscaped surfaces to place tables and chairs
– A fire pit and other sources of outdoor lighting and heat for fun after dark
– A large gate to bring in tables, chairs, tents and more
– A grill or an outdoor kitchen to prepare food outdoors while surrounded by party guests

A Backyard for the Family

Give every family member a place to enjoy in the back yard with these features:

– Safe play area for the kids including a jungle gym, swing set and sand box
– Hammock for teens to enjoy a good book on a lovely afternoon
– Seating area for adults to soak up the outdoors and keep an eye on the kids
– Fenced in yard for privacy and safety

A Low-Maintenance Back Yard

If you want to enjoy a serene outdoor setting without much work, include these features in your back yard:

– Native plants, trees and grass
– Xeriscaped and hardscaped areas that don’t require pruning, mowing or watering
– Covered seating area to keep outdoor furniture in good shape longer

Spring Landscape Planning

Having an idea of what you might want to include in your new backyard gives you a good starting point, but putting your plan to paper is a crucial part of making your design ideas a reality. Our landscape designers will plot the positions of fixtures you don’t want to change, such as trees, sidewalks, buildings, driveways and similar items.

We will also figure out important details such as where will the irrigation system go? How will you run electricity to the lights and pond pump? Are stone steps practical, or do you really need a ramp?

We will consider the topography of your back yard and whether your ideas are feasible. Then our landscape designer can help you choose specific plants, hardscape materials and more to ensure your back yard meets your specific needs.

To work with a knowledgeable landscape and hardscape design company, please contact the pros at Gabris Landscaping. We can help you accomplish exactly what you have in mind for your backyard this spring.

19 Apr

Spice Up Your Landscaping with Water Features Springfield MO

Adding water features to the landscaping in your yard helps to soothe the spirit after a hard day of work. A beautifully planted yard with well-groomed plants and hardscaped walkways with custom bricks is a great start, but it lacks the flow and continuity that a stream, pond or fountain can bring. A well-designed yard will make a statement about the owner with a professionally designed pond, waterfall or fountain included in the landscape.

There are a variety of water features to consider for your landscaping with more benefits than just beauty and relaxation to be gained. With the increasing weather shifts including droughts and intermittent heavy downpours, a well-designed yard can include rainwater harvesting. A water garden created by our certified landscape professionals can be one of the most beautiful and earth friendly water features that one can invest in.

Our water features add tranquil beauty and relaxing sounds to a back or front yard oasis. Especially when you mix in lighting with your water features and plants to make them feel more natural. Your family and friends will all feel welcomed and relaxed in a yard with these additions. No need to travel to some far away location to relax. It makes sense for families to do more to make their home like a mini vacation spot.

Water features designed by our landscape professionals can avoid some of the leakage and mildew problems that homemade additions or hobbyists encounter when attempting to install such an intricate feature.

Lovely waterfalls and ponds can actually channel excess rain away from the foundation of a home, offer some flow and balance to the yard, and become a lovely topic of conversation. Keep in mind that there will be extra maintenance for these water features, so they are only recommended for the dedicated homeowner.

Imagine working from home and wanting to take a break. Simply by walking into your back yard, a quick stroll can energize the spirit to go back into the focus mode for a more productive working day. A home business owner would be better prepared to entertain business guests with a patio and a small stream or fountain running nearby. The conversation is much more likely to go well with this type of atmosphere.

Our professional landscape designers will take into account the drainage of the soil, the location of the streets and trees, and the run off of your yard. Our final design will be one that not only adds harmony to your life, but it will also add value to your home.

05 Apr

Why Hire A Professional Landscape Design Company Springfield MO?

Does your dream backyard have beautiful plants, shrubs and winding walkways? If you want everything installed and built properly, hire a professional landscape design company. Gabris Landscaping has the experts you can rely on to not just meet, but exceed standards to make sure the job is done right.

Our professional landscapers have excellent ideas that work. Since professional landscape companies have years of experience with a wide variety of great customers, we are already familiar with the most popular designs and ideas. Based on our customer’s previous designs, we already know what works and what does not work.

Getting The Job Done Right The First Time

There are some backyard spaces that simply cannot have certain features built in, based on architecture, slope of your yard, and other elements. We know what’s best and will advise you of your options. Knowing this information can help save you money, time, and effort in the long run. When you hire us, you aren’t just getting a professional landscape company, you are hiring a team of consultants that can help you design and implement your own personal backyard sanctuary.

Our professional landscapers can actually save you money in the long run, because we know how to avoid common pitfalls that sometimes arise during landscape design and building. Knowing these elements can save you money and speed up the project.

If you try to do the landscaping yourself and you plant several plants and shrubs in your front yard and backyard that need consistent watering you might overlook a few things. Did you account for sun and shade throughout the day? Are there larger trees in the area that may well pose a hindrance to the best growth possible?

We want you to enjoy the hard work that it would take to spruce up your yard and the investment into the plants – the first time! Having our experience and the knowledge will prevent headaches later on. Are you thinking of planting a tree by the house? We’ll make sure you allow enough space for roots to grow or the canopy to not grow into the gutters.

We Help Turn Your Dreams Into Reality

Our professional landscapers will help you design your own personal oasis. Maybe you have looked at home magazines or watched HGTV to get ideas for how to design your backyard. You probably have so many ideas to implement, but how do you do logistically accomplish this task the right way? You hire a professional landscaping team. Our landscapers have many years of experience building and designing backyards and front yards. We have created beautiful backyard retreats for our customers.

Our professional landscapers can conceptualize your landscaping while helping you maintain your budget. Tackling a huge backyard makeover by yourself is not recommended. A lot of planning and designing goes into it, not to mention the tools to implement your ideas. Gabris Landscaping will take care of all of this for you.

When we meet in the beginning to discuss your project, we will also talk about your budget. We keep this in mind so we can create a beautiful outdoor space for you and not hurt your wallet. Also, we are well aware of how much materials cost nowadays. If you are budget-conscious, we can determine how to give you an outdoor paradise without going over your budget.

Our landscape design experts are well-versed with our local climate. The climate in our region is a very important factor when designing your landscaping. You don’t want to plant shrubs that will not survive throughout a harsh winter. You also want to consider which types of flowers, shrubs, etc to plant—- perennials, biennials, etc.

We Offer A Wide Range of Services

Our professional landscapers offer a wide range of services to help you. Broadening your options can be a very good thing. When hiring our company to complete your project, we have the expertise to bring about the whole package including yard grading, re-seeding and mulching to put icing on the cake. With our combination of services, we know you will absolutely love your brand new backyard oasis. It’s about more than offering specific services. It’s about designing an outdoor lifestyle for you and your family.

We have years of experience with landscape design, but we also know how to do the job right.

08 Feb

Cold Weather Landscaping – Landscaper Springfield MO

With colder weather, when we think of our yards, we likely picture dead foliage, decaying leaves, and snow trodden grounds. Mixed in with the blustery winds and the cold gray skies we often see during the winter, it’s not a pretty thought.

How do you landscape during colder weather? “You don’t” most people think. Fortunately, that’s simply not true. With the right landscaper, any season can be the perfect season to turn your yard into a masterpiece.

Tips for Creating a Beautiful Cold Weather Landscape

Creating an attractive landscape may seem like an impossible feat during the coldest months of the year, but with the right design elements, your home’s exterior can still be a thing of beauty. Forget about leafless trees and bloomless plants. With the following tips from our landscape design experts, your yard can be the envy of the neighborhood once again.

Consider planting cold weather blooms. Stick with four-season perennials and winter shrubs. Red cornus and hollies add striking interest against the graying winter landscape. And, if you can’t seem to find the blooms you enjoy, evergreen is a classic winter staple.

Rely on your hardscape. The solution to enhancing your cold weather landscaping is not necessarily about what you plant in your garden. A well-placed trellis, bench, or arbor can add character to your home’s exterior. And it will be a year-round centerpiece once winter is long gone. An outdoor fireplace can enhance the aesthetic of your outdoor space, while providing warmth and light for an outdoor gathering space.

Embrace color. Color is essential to a well-done landscape. But, if you can’t find colorful winter plants, you can always brighten up your hardscapes. Colorful outdoor furniture or accent pieces can provide the pop of color needed to bring an evergreen landscape to life.

Lighten up. In the winter months, our evenings are plagued with darkness a bit earlier than we’d like, which permits very few outdoor activities—until now. Shed some light on your outdoor space by installing fixtures that accent your home’s best landscaping features and create light for outdoor gatherings.

Did we spark your interest in landscaping your home’s exterior for colder weather? Contact us today for more information from our landscaping design professionals. We’ll provide you with a free design consultation and quote for your project.

Most landscapers in the colder regions have plenty of reasons to get cold feet about winter. But not us. At Gabris Landscaping, we are committed to providing top-notch cold weather landscaping design services. Contact us today for your design consultation.