Irrigation

Irrigation and Drainage Services - Lawn Irrigation Springfield MO
05 Mar

Troubleshooting for Irrigation

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Troubleshooting for Irrigation

The best way to troubleshoot electrical system problems within an irrigation system is with a step-by-step approach. The method detailed below isolates and checks each of the irrigation components: the controller, zone control valves and the wiring that connects it all together.

Step 1: Check the Obvious

Before launching a thorough system diagnosis, don’t forget to check the obvious. Is the system water supply on? Are there isolation valves at the backflow preventer, pump station or in the mainline that are preventing water from flowing? Has the flow control on the valve been turned all of the way off? Reviewing these factors up front can save time and effort.

Step 2: Make Sure You Don’t Have a Programming Error

If the zone operates fine manually using the controller’s manual mode, but does not operate automatically, this usually indicates a programming error rather than an electrical problem. Review the controller’s programming guide and look for data entry mistakes.

Step 3: Know How to Use a Volt ohm Meter

An inexpensive volt ohm meter will be your most valuable tool and a required component for successful electrical trouble shooting. Volt ohm meters can be purchased in the electrical supplies section of a local hardware store, electronics shop (like Radio Shack) or your local irrigation equipment supplier. Modern digital meters are more reliable and provide an easy to read display that can give precise quantitative feedback of the system symptoms.

Step 4: Is the Controller Operational?

After these preliminary steps, you’re now ready to check the controller itself. A blank LCD display, or failure to respond to keyboard entries, could indicate a lack of power to the unit or other damage. Begin by using your volt ohm meter to take a voltage reading of the primary incoming power, to the controller. It should read somewhere between 110 to 125 volts. If it doesn’t, you’ve found your problem. But, it’s seldom that easy. In some cases, you’ll notice that the display of the controller is scrambled, missing LED segments or the entire unit is “frozen” preventing buttons or dials from entering data. This is a symptom of “micro processor lock up,” where the primary brain of the controller has become confused with bad data from electrical surges or other causes. This can often be cleared by re setting the device. Reset the controller by either disconnecting all electrical and battery power from the unit for several minutes, or by pressing a “reset” button which clears the memory of the processor and reboots the system.

Step 5: Check for a Tripped Breaker or Blown Fuse

If the controller passes these tests, next check the station output of the controller to the valves that control the area that is not being irrigated. Again using the volt ohm meter, you can check to see if the output terminals indicate the 24 volts needed to open a standard solenoid. If you do not get a reading here, you should check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker within the controller. Also check the output of the transformer in the controller to make sure that it is outputting correct voltage. A blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker in most controllers indicates an overload condition in the field not a problem with the controller. If one of these conditions is present, you can certainly replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker, however this will not solve the root cause of the problem with either the field wiring or valve solenoid.

If you are fortunate to have a top of the line controller, you may have the benefit of a more modern feature called “automatic short circuit detection” which is a specialized self diagnostic system within the controller itself. This handy feature allows the controller to identify a zone that has a fault in the field wire or valve and skip over the affected zone, eliminating a blown fuse. The best part of this feature is that the controller will digitally display a message that says: “Station 3 Error” to assist with locating the valve or field wire problem.

Step 6: Check Field Wiring

If the controller, transformer and station outputs all work properly, the next place to check is the field wiring. And this happens to be the most common place where unforeseen problems can occur.

Use the volt ohm meter and perform an “ohm test” on a specific zone circuit (common wire plus station wire), with the controller power turned off. At this point, you will want to be certain the volt ohm meter is set to the correct resistance setting so that the unit provides accurate and measurable feedback. Make sure to disconnect the wires you are testing from the controller terminal block so that your reading is specific to the wires in the field, and not mixed up with feedback through the circuits of the controller. The “ohm test” will send a pulse of current from the battery in the volt meter through the circuit. A normal reading is 20 to 60 ohms.

If the circuit has a “short,” meaning the current is taking a shortcut back to the controller, the reading may be as low as 1 to 10 ohms. If the circuit is completely broken, you will get an infinity reading, meaning there is no clear path for the electricity to flow back through the circuit and to the volt ohm meter.

A reading of a high number, but not infinity, would indicate that there is still an intact circuit, but there is a high amount of resistance in the circuit that is keeping current from flowing efficiently enough to activate a solenoid valve. This is a common symptom of a bad electrical connection, usually an underground splice that was not properly waterproofed.

Test each circuit from the controller and you will notice a pattern. The good circuits will have similar readings and the bad circuit will stand out from the others. This gives you confidence in the process and helps you work specifically to the final step of checking the valve solenoid.

Step 7: Check the Valve Solenoid

The final step in a systematic approach is to decide whether diagnosed problems in the field wiring are related to the wiring and splices, or to the specific solenoid on the valve. At this point, you will move to the actual location of the valve in the field and cut into the wires leading into the solenoid to take an ohm reading of the solenoid’s resistance. Typically, if the solenoid is bad, you will get a reading for a “short” or 1 to 10 ohms. (There is no need to test voltage at the valve since you have already “ohm tested” each circuit at the controller so you know which zones have problems.)

How To Sharpen Your Trouble Shooting Skills

Electrical trouble shooting an irrigation control system using this step by process takes time to learn, and requires a willingness to try multiple approaches before finding the solution to your problem. Many irrigation manufacturers and distributors offer training classes on electrical trouble shooting that will give you an opportunity to get hands on experience with this process.

A few hours in an irrigation trouble shooting course can provide valuable training for that hot summer day when you face stressed turf – and a system that will not operate!

 

 

 

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Proper Techniques for Lawn Irrigation - Springfield MO
05 Mar

How to set an Irrigation Controller

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How to set an Irrigation Controller

    1. Date & Time – set up the date and time to match the current date and time
    2. Set Seasonal Adjustment to 100% – Turn your dial to Seasonal Adjust and press the up or down arrows as necessary
    3. Program (A, B, or C)
      1. Pick one program and clear out the rest if anything is set in them
      2. Only set up multiple if you have special circumstances and don’t want to have to re-set original program “start-times” and “run-times”
    4. Set start times for each program
        1. Each program runs all zones for their “run time”

      i. 1 zone may run for 7 minutes
      ii. A program with 10 zones running for 7 minutes will run for 70 minutes total
      1.Therefore, start times must be at least 70 minutes apart or system will malfunction and show some kind of error on the screen
      2.We should never need more than 1 start time on a normal yard
      i.BUT, on new plantings, (bed or bushes) we DO use 2-3 start times so we can water 2-3 times in one day
      ii. Spring and Fall typically need 2 waterings a day and Summer can sometimes require 3 waterings to keep new plants or grass healthy
      iii. Often when we set more than one start time, we would save those settings as a second program (program B)
      1.This allows us to leave the original program exactly as it was so it can be returned to after the establishment period of any new plants

    5. Set run times for each zone

1.At 3x per week:
i.18 minutes on rotor zones & mp-rotator zones
ii.7 minutes on spray zones
iii.25-50 minutes on drip zones
iv. Specific adjustments should be made based on plant type, wind flow, and sun/shade of the area each zone waters

  1. Set days to water1.M WF or Tu Th S for a 3-day a week schedule
    1. M W F or Tu Th S for a 3-day a week schedule
  2. Set seasonal % adjustment for the season
    1. Summer: 100%-120%
    2. Spring/Fall: 40%-80%
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Yard Drainage Systems Springfield MO
05 Mar

Irrigation Pump Education

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Irrigation Pump Education

The pressure is on.  A customer has requested a pump for their irrigation system and they need it within 24 hours. Your palms start sweating. Your mouth goes dry. And your heart could likely pump blood to two full-grown adults at the rate it’s going.

Pause. Take a deep breath.

Helping a customer assess their pump needs doesn’t need to be an impossible task. By understanding the basic hydraulic formulas, pump varieties, and how to size a pump, you can better assist your customer in finding a pump that fits their needs perfectly.

The Magic Numbers: 0.433 and 2.31

Have you ever wondered how many “pumps” would inflate a basketball to the perfect PSI? 0.433 and 2.31 likely aren’t it, but when it comes to traditional pumps, these numbers are the right and left gates to the kingdom of hydraulics. In order to dive into the world of pumps, an individual needs a solid understanding of the vital function these numbers play. They are used in two ways:

1) Feet of Head to Pounds per Square Inch

To convert feet of head to pressure in PSI, multiply the feet by 0.433. One foot of water equals 0.433 PSI.

2) Pounds per Square Inch to Feet of Head

If you have the pressure but need to figure out the feet of the head, multiply the pressure by 2.31. One PSI equals 2.31 feet of water.

Gas or Diesel: Pump Varieties

Once you understand the importance of 0.433 and 2.31, you can confidently move on to the next step in the process—assessing what kind of pump the system needs. There are several varieties of pumps, but two of the most common are submersible pumps and above-ground centrifugal pumps.

Submersible Pumps

Submersible pumps are submerged underwater and out of sight, making them a great option for a homeowner who doesn’t want a pump to become a part of their landscape.

This pump consists of three parts:

  • The motor, which is located at the bottom
  • The intake screen, which is located at the middle
  • The pump itself, which is located at the top

The pump is placed in a PVC pipe with filter screens at the bottom and a well seal on top. The well seal holds the pump and discharge pipe in place. Water is able to enter through the screens (which filter out debris) and then passes over the motor to keep it cool.

Next, it enters into the pump through the intake screen and becomes pressurized by the impellers before exiting through the discharge pipe.

Above Ground Centrifugal Pump

A centrifugal pump uses an impeller to move water, and can lift water from places like a lake or storage tank.

This pump consists of two parts:

  • The motor end
  • The wet end

When the motor on this style of pump spins the impeller, a vacuum is created allowing atmospheric pressure to push water into the pump.

The water is lifted from the source where an underwater filter foot valve is placed and then goes into the suction line, where it is transferred into the pump to become pressurized.

When an irrigation system doesn’t have enough existing pressure, an inline booster pump (another type of centrifugal pump) will increase the PSI, giving the system the right amount of pressure to operate properly.

This pump consists of two parts:

  • The motor end
  • The wet end (hosts the impeller)

Now that we’ve got our feet wet looking at a couple varieties of pumps and their uses, let’s take a look at some of the basic steps to take when it comes to sizing a pump.

If the Shoe Fits: The Basics of Sizing A Pump

The plot thickens, but after reviewing both sections above, you will be up for the task. It’s time to help your customer size their pump. The six steps listed below will help you size a suction lift centrifugal pump.

Step 1: Determine the Elevation

First, determine the elevation in feet from the surface of the water to the pump. Use the hydraulic formula referenced in section one to determine this. Be careful. If the elevation and friction loss on the suction side exceed 20 feet of head, you need to reconsider your pump choice and/or pump location.

Step 2: Identify Suction Side Friction Loss

Next, identify any sources that may cause friction loss throughout your irrigation system on the suction side. You will need to assess the following:

  • Suction line size and length
  • Check valve size
  • Estimate of fitting loss
  • Any other obstructions unique to your system

Once you have identified the PSI loss for all of the above, plug the total into this formula to determine the needed feet of head:
Total PSI loss _____x 2.31= _____ Feet of Head

Step 3: Find the Greatest Pressure

The next thing you need to account for is the greatest pressure that will be required for the type of sprinkler heads your irrigation system uses. Find your type of sprinkler head below, and plug the greatest pressure required for that head into this formula: PSI ____x 2.31=_____ Feet of Head

  • Rotors: 25-90 PSI
  • Sprays: 15-30 PSI
  • Drip: 20-30 PSI

Step 4: Account for Elevation

For this step, simply figure out the elevation in feet from the pump to the highest outlet.

Step 5: Identify Discharge Side Friction Loss

Above, we determined the friction loss for the suction side of the pump. Now we need to define the friction loss for the systems discharge side (also known as the “worst zone”). You will need to assess the following.

  • Mainline size and length
  • Sprinkler valve size
  • Estimate of fitting loss
  • Backflow/filtration

Once you have identified the PSI loss for all of the above, plug the total PSI loss into this formula to determine the needed feet of head:

Total PSI loss _____x 2.31= _____ Feet of Head

Step 6: Total Out The Dynamic Feet of Head

Finally, to figure out the dynamic feet of head your system needs, add the totals from step one through five together.

_____ = Total Feet of Head

Following the step-by-step process listed above will help assist you in determining what kind of a pump is right for your customer’s project. An irrigation pump sizing worksheet, like the one attached at the end of this paper, will help you account for any other information needed to help your customer make an informed pump selection.

After you have completed the Irrigation Pump Sizing Information Worksheet, you should have two numbers: one for the total feet of head, and one for the gallons per minute (GPM). Follow these steps to chart your pump curve:

Step 1: Plot your GPM. It is advised to add a 10 percent safety margin. (Follow the numbers listed along bottom of the graph).

Step 2: Plot your total feet of head. It is advised to add a 10 percent safety margin. (Follow the numbers listed along the left side of the curve).

Step 3: Use a horizontal and vertical axis to determine what a specific flow would be for your total feet of head.

Step 4: Multiply your total feet of head by .433 to get your PSI.

Step 5: The closer the axis intersect is to the center of the curve, the more efficient the pump will be. Remember that all pumps have their own individual curve

Nice work! After completing all of the sections above, you should be able to better assist your customer with their pump selection. Should you encounter additional questions, always refer to a pump expert before making a formal recommendation. You can do so with Ewing’s pump experts at 1-844-PUMP-PRO.

 

By Backflow Prevention, Irrigation, Irrigation System Backflow Testing Springfield MO, News, Water Features Springfield MO , , 0 Comments
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Avoiding Brown Spots In Your Yard - Lawn Care Services Springfield MO
05 Mar

Japanese Beetles

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Japanese Beetles

Tree species affected: Japanese beetles are known to feed on over 300 plant species. Linden (basswood), elm, crabapple, sycamore (planetree), sassafras, plum, cherry, and bald cypress are commonly damaged, as well as grape and rose.

Concerns: Lacy, skeletonized leaves. Partial or entire defoliation.

Description: Japanese beetles feed on the upper surface of leaves, leaving behind veins. Damage is frequently seen near the top of the tree or plant first. These beetles often feed in groups.

Insecticides are not compatible with trying to maintain a pollinator-friendly yard and should never be used on flower-ing plants or trees that will attract bees and other pollinators.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the lifecycle of the Japanese beetle?

Japanese beetles spend most of their one-year lifecycle under-ground as a white, c-shaped grub. These grubs feed on grass roots and can damage turf if populations are high. Grubs pupate in late spring and emerge from the ground as adult beetles around mid-June in Missouri. These beetles congregate on host plants, particularly those in full sun. Japanese beetles congregate through a combination of pheromones released by females and floral scents emitted by the damaged host. After mating, each female beetle lays 40-60 eggs in the soil over the course of her 30-45 day lifespan. These eggs hatch into grubs in July and August. Most adult Japanese beetles are gone for the year by mid-August.

Will Japanese beetles kill my trees?

Healthy, established trees can typically tolerate a heavy amount of feeding damage. However, this damage is a source of stress for trees. You can help your trees by watering them 2-3 times per month during dry times to avoid additional stress from drought. A good rule of thumb is ten gallons of water per inch of a tree’s diameter.

Should I use a Japanese beetle trap?

Be cautious when using Japanese beetle traps as they are very effective at bringing beetles in from areas well outside of your yard. Traps don’t catch all the beetles they attract, so nearby plants may be heavily damaged. If you decide to use a trap, place it at least 100 feet away from plants you want to protect. Dispose of trapped beetles frequently by dropping them into a bucket of soapy water.

If I control the Japanese beetle grubs in my lawn, will I have fewer beetles next year?

Controlling Japanese beetle grubs in your lawn won’t significantly reduce the number of beetles you see next year. Japanese beetles are strong fliers and can continue to fly in from neighboring areas over a mile away.Grub control may have more of an impact if you live in a forested area where turf grass is uncommon.

How can I control Japanese beetles?

For light infestations on shrubs and young trees, handpicking is an effective method of control. Beetles are typically sluggish and easy to capture early in the morning. Shake stems and branches with Japanese beetles over a bucket of soapy water.

Several contact insecticides are available for control of Japanese beetle adults (e.g. acephate, carbaryl, cyfluthrin, permethrin); check the label to confirm Japanese beetles and your plant species are listed. These chemicals may need to be reapplied at labeled intervals, especially in hot or rainy weather. Organic products containing azadiractin and spinosad are effective deterrents for a few days. Neem oil may be useful in deterring beetles from feeding if used at the first sign of damage.

Systemic insecticides, such as those containing imidacloprid, can be applied as a soil drench to protect some types of trees from Japanese beetles (follow all label restrictions). However, this product would need to be applied in early June in order to be effective since it can take 4-6 weeks for a tree to translocate the chemical from soil to the leaves.

Due to impacts on pollinators, systemic insecticides should not be applied before or during the bloom period on any plant. In addition, use of many IMIDACLOPRID products (e.g. Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub Insect Control) is NOT ALLOWED on LINDEN (BASSWOOD), a common host tree of Japanese beetles.Product labels contain new restrictions due to frequent misuse and impacts on pollinators.

Are there any biological controls for Japanese beetles?

No biological controls are currently available for managing adult Japanese beetles. Two products are available for biological control of Japanese beetle grubs in the soil.Neither product is 100% effective.

  • Milky spore (milky disease bacteria)isa long-term control technique that can help reduce grub populations in 2-3 years. Introduce milky spore into several spots in your yard ina grid pattern.Once in the soil, the spores will be present for many years. Milky spore requires specific temperature and moisture conditions to infect grubs, so effectiveness varies.
  • Nematodes of the Heterorhabditisstrains will attack grubs.Because soil moisture is critical for nematode survival, it can be difficult to maintain proper conditions for nematodes and avoid overwatering plants.Nematodes need to be applied every year up to three times during the grub stage.

What should I do next year to protect my trees?

Keep an eye out in mid-June for Japanese beetles. Handpick beetles off small or newly planted trees. Preventing early feeding damage can protect trees in the following weeks. If populations are too high to remove by hand, spray an insecticide labeled to control Japanese beetles on your particular tree species. Repeat, if needed, at labeled intervals.

For large established trees, help reduce stress caused by Japanese beetle feeding through good tree care practices: water trees 2-3 times per month during drought conditions, avoid wounding by mowers and weed trimmers, and, if used, keep mulch rings no deeper than 3”.

Do weather conditions impact Japanese beetle populations?

Drought conditions in July and August can lead to the death of many newly hatched grubs. During severe droughts, irrigated areas and some low-lying wet locations may be the only places that grubs survive. Harsh winter conditions can also be a limiting factor in Japanese beetle grub survival. Grubs are killed when soil temperatures reach 15°F or when soils remain near 32°F for two months, (snow cover can significantly insulate soils from frigid air). A cold winter without much snow could greatly reduce the following year’s adult beetle population.

By Backflow Prevention, Irrigation, Irrigation System Backflow Testing Springfield MO, News, Water Features Springfield MO , , 0 Comments
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Additional Tree Disease Resources (2015) - Tree Service Company Springfield MO
04 Mar

Buying a Tree Handout

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The 2 Most Important Considerations When Buying a Tree

1.)The Goal or Purpose of the Tree

What do you want out of your new tree? Is the tree’s purpose to provide shade or privacy? Is the tree just ornamental and for aesthetics? Are we trying to attract wildlife with the tree?

Different trees are used for shade versus privacy. Shade trees tend to be tall. Often times shade trees are deciduous as well. Oaks, Maples, Ash, and Poplar are all common types of shade trees. Privacy trees are typically evergreen. Privacy trees are often conifers as well. However, not all evergreens are conifers though. So sometimes a non-coniferous tree such as a holly or magnolia tree can be used for privacy due to their evergreen qualities.

Ornamental and Specimen trees are used strictly to enhance the look and diversity of a landscape. These can consist of many types of trees because they are not intended to cover a specific area for privacy or grow a certain height for shade. Often certain specimen trees can be planted to coincide with various wildlife. For example, a customer who enjoys watching the squirrels run around the yard would probably want to plant an oak, hickory, or walnut tree so that the nuts can attract more squirrels.

2.)Long-Term Maintenance of the Tree

How much trimming does each variety of tree require? Does the tree shed twigs or bark? What kind of fruit/nut/seed does the tree produce? What are the potential pest and disease problems with the tree?

It is going to take a significant amount of knowledge about various trees to answer these questions. We recommend that our customers consider the goal or purpose of their tree. Our goal is to help to educate customers on any long-term maintenance considerations so that they can make a quality decision on what trees they want to install. We typically address these considerations during one of our free estimate and consultation meetings. If you are in Springfield, Nixa, or Ozark, Missouri, just give us a call at (417) 837-1578. We can set everything up to guide you through the tree selection process.

If you are out of our area, we recommend you find a local ISA Certified Arborist. Go towww.isa-arbor.com and use the “Find an Arborist” tool to locate an Arborist in your area

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